A Closer Look at the Attempts to Block off the Liangma River

Chances are you've probably been to Liangma River at least once since the partial shutdown, if you haven't then congratulations, you're Beijing's newest generation of hipster that refuses to go to the latest “cool” spot. Now, this is by no means limited to foreigners with just as many Chinese also frequenting the riverside – along with a regular fishing spot, it even became a go to camping spot a few weeks back!

The Liangma River has gained such a reputation recently that it was even hailed by none other than China Daily as the “Seine of Beijing” and has become Beijing’s number one hot spot to hang out since in-house dining was banned at the start of the May Holiday.

But following the initial flood of Beijing residents to the riverside, there has recently been an abundance of rumors and pictures circulating of boarded up riverside suggesting that local authorities have taken to drastic measure to shut down the entire river.

I decided to have a look myself and cycle/walk from where the renovated part of the river starts, by Arrow Factory, all the way down to Chaoyang Park, to see if it's worth the bother of visiting or just avoiding altogether for the time being.

First, I went along the south bank of the river, then went back down the north bank to see just what exactly is going on.

Section One – Arrow Factory to Xindong Road

The south side of the first section of the river by Arrow Factory seems to be business as usual with nothing blocked off.

Across on the north side one can find the first telltale signs of a blocked off area, with the white tent seating area having been completely blocked off.

Section Two – Xindong Road to Sanlitun Road/ Xinyuan Street

Once you cross over Xindong Road which has been one of, if not the, most popular area for Beijing residents to chill out at, you’ll immediately find new fences have put along the south side.

The new fences go all the way along this section, blocking off the entrances from the sidewalks so that you can only enter and exit on the east and west sides. 

On these sides, health checks have been set up which require individuals to scan their health kit and undergo a temperature check.

The north side doesn’t have checkpoints to get in, but various areas are fenced or taped off. The popular picnic spot by the metal platform-like thing has been completely fenced off.

Section Three – Sanlitun Road/Xinyuan Street to The Third Ring Road

Like the previous section, the south side of this area has all been completely fenced off so you can only access the river by two entrances/exits. These also require visitors to scan in and also have their temperature checked.

The south side doesn’t have checkpoints but the grass and walls right by the riverside have all been fenced or taped off.

Section Four – The Third Ring Road to Maizidian Street

Both the north and south side have no checkpoints to speak of.

On the north side many areas have been taped off, and metal borders have been erected close to where some riverside restaurants are located.

Now, if you go over to the south side, things get a little crazy with the tape, which I think you could only class as excessive. All green areas are taped or fenced off and the river is certainly not looking very scenic this side anymore.  

Section Five – Maizidian Street to Chaoyang Park Road

Again, there are no check points to get in on both sides of the river to be found here.

On the north side, entrances to the stairs down to the river have been blocked so you can’t access the deck area underneath, which is where a number of tables and chairs are located. The area above this spot has also been blocked off.

Across the river on the north side there has been some more enthusiastic taping, though no where near the manic level in the previous section of river. Unsurprisingly, the circular gazebo type structure has been completely fenced off as well.

Section Six – Chaoyang Park Road to Anjialou Road

The south side of this bit of the river runs alongside Solana shopping mall. Along the top section (as of this morning) nothing has been bordered off. If you go down to the section by the river, the decking areas have been fenced off – though that doesn’t seem to have put off some local fishermen.

Gates have been put up at both entrances to the north side. However, judging by their style, their use seems to be more about stopping bicycles and scooters from entering, rather than people.

The large grassy bank area has also been fenced off, it was previously a pretty popular picnicking spot.

Section Seven – Anjialou Road to The Fourth Ring Road

You are only able to walk on the north side of this final section of the renovated part of Liangma River. There hasn’t been any fences or taping at all here, and as of press time at least, and deck areas were still accessible. 

You can clearly see from the pictures documenting my journey along the river that there’s still plenty of people out and about, though as this was daytime on a weekday it’s fair to assume it gets much busier at weekends and evenings. I also did see a lot of baoans about with megaphones blaring, and it seems that the number one tactic to try and discourage people from “gathering” is to attempt to annoy everyone into compliance. 

From personal experience and reports from friends, people are being told they are not allowed to eat, picnic blankets and sitting on the grass is not allowed, sometimes sitting on steps or ledges is fine, but not always. Once things become dark, the lights are no longer switched on and the annoyance tactics become more aggressive with people being told “to not gather and go home to sleep”.

Anyway, for now it seems unless you want to return home with a blaring headache from the megaphones and being forced to move so many times, it may be best to avoid the river for the time being. 

However, one burning question I do have from my journey along the river is: are Beijing’s fishermen the true rebels of the capital?

READ: The Best of Beijing in Readers' Photos, Pt. 3

Images: Katie Coy