Snack Attack: Find a Wife (Cake) & More on Your Commute Home

Snack Attack is your weekly guide to the sometimes flavorful, sometimes smelly, sometimes odd munchies to be had in the capital.

Beijing circa 2022 has so many places to buy baked goods -- from standalone shops to supermarkets to convenience stores. But for a true Beijinger such as myself, 稻香村 Daoxiangcun evokes some of the fondest childhood memories. For those of you who aren't familiar with this time-honored brand, it's quite possibly one of China's oldest pastry shops, tracing its origins back to a shop in Suzhou in 1773, with its first Beijing branch opening in 1895.

Its selection of pastries is also classic: hearkening from an era prior the mass adoption of super sugary treats and before flavors like chocolate, vanilla or exotic fruits and berries found a foothold in China, Daoxiangcun draws its flavors from more traditional ingredients, such as mung bean paste, honey, sesame, winter melon and nuts.  

When I was young, my mom would bring home snacks from Daoxiangcun on a regular basis. Instead of just gorging myself silly on anything I could grab my hands on, I'd usually hunt for my favorite treat: a rose cake, pastry sweetened naturally with an extract made from rose petals.

That's not to say I didn't enjoy the other snacks; in fact all were delicious. It was just part of the experience that made my mom's Daoxiangcun trips so special. So special, in fact, that when I learned a number of Daoxiangcun shops had opened in a few Beijing subway stations, nostalgia overwhelmed me and I couldn't wait to go and see for myself what they had on offer.

The new stores are part of a gradual opening up of Beijng's subway stations to retail. Barren of shopping opportunities since the early 2000s, the extensive system began welcoming convenience stores and other retail spots once again last year. 

You'll find one of the new subway Daoxiangcun locations at the Southeast exit of Line 5's Yonghegong Lama Temple Station (the other is in Line 8's Beitucheng Station), where you can take home some of the bakery's classics: red-circle mooncakes, mung bean cakes, egg yolk cakes and of course my beloved rose cakes, all lovingly packaged in beautiful boxes.

Lost as to what to try? Here are some local favorites if you decide to visit on your own.

玫瑰鲜花饼 Méiguī xiānhuā bǐng, Rose Cakes

This mix of rose essence and rice flour pastry is so delicious you'll be hooked from the first bite. The purple filling paired with white flaky pastry and classic red stamp atop make it as picturesque as it is yummy.

蜂蜜蛋糕 Fēngmì dàngāo, Honey Cakes

These golden, puffy cakes are another popular Beijing delicacy. The use of honey lends a characteristic touch of sweetness that isn't overbearing.

绿豆饼 Lǜdòu bǐng, Mung Bean Cakes

This one is for those who like their sweets a little more mellow. In fact, the flavor of this mung bean cake has been compared by some to that of potato. This pastry gets a lift from a touch of cream, which lends a hint of sweetness to this mellow fellow.

老婆饼 Lǎopó bǐng, Wife Cakes

There are a few stories explaining the name behind these special snacks.

One goes like this: Years ago, a woman's father-in-law fell ill. As the family was poor, they couldn't afford proper medicine, so the woman sold herself into slavery to pay for her father-in-law's treatment. The woman's husband was devstated but determined to buy her freedom. He concocted a flaky pastry filled with winter melon and almond paste and sold it on the streets. He sold these "wife cakes" day in and day out until he finally enough money to buy his wife's freedom.

This pastry is as sweet as its creation story, featuring a thin crust that melts in your mouth. The five spice powder that accompanies the winter melon and almond paste filling makes it a perfect mix of sweet and savory to serve with afternoon tea.

自来红月饼  Zì lái hóng yuèbǐng, Red Circle Moon Cakes

A quintessential Beijing classic filled with sugar, sesame oil and nuts. It's the appearance that stands out here, which consists of a rounded pastry topped with a large red circle and two holes poked on each side. You can't call yourself a true Beijinger if you haven't tried one of these freshly baked snacks.

Read:Snack Attack: Griddling Up Jianbing With Our Beijing x the Hutong 

Images:Irene Li, Dianping