Local Gem: Is There a Museum Restaurant Capable of Nourishing Body and Soul?
As we reported earlier this week, Beijing is certainly a world leader when it comes to museums. Not only is it home to a large amount of them, but it also boasts the second-most visited in the world – the National Museum of China – meaning our fair capital sure has a flourishing diversity of cultural vaults. And despite a pandemic that threatened to deal a fatal blow to some of them, Beijing’s museums came out the other side stronger than ever with a variety of exhibitions ranging from the new archaeologic discoveries of Sanxingdui to the precious Ukiyoe collection, and even rock samples freshly transported from the surface of the moon. What’s interesting about museums though, is that for all the cultural treasures they house, their cafes tend to be wholly bland or overpriced and gimmicky. Which leaves one wondering: Is there a museum capable of nourishing body and soul?
Luckily, I found such a place during my recent visit to X Museum, located at Beijing Art & Finance International Innovation Park. X Museum is a private institution that was founded last year by Xufu Huang and Theresa Tse. According to their website, “‘X’ is the intersection of two lines, as well as the conversation of innovative concepts between disciplines and their endless possibilities. Based on critical perspectives and experimental concepts, X Museum is committed to cultivating and supporting emerging artists within a global context while embracing innovative practices, aiming to build an art institution that celebrates new cultures and new ideas.”
While that all sounds well and good, what truly motivated me to travel out of the fifth ring was The Circle, a humble restaurant hiding inside the museum. In fact, thanks to a chance meeting I had with Michaelat the Bookworm a while back (R.I.P. our beloved bookstore) I found out that he had become the manager of The Circle, and after I saw some photos of the dishes I knew I had to give them a try. Especially the bao series, which is an elevated version of the Chinese 刈包 guabao, where you can add a variety of fillings to a sliced steam bun.
So, full disclosure… making the trek is long, even for someone who lives on the east side of Beijing. Fortunately, however, the food is doubtlessly worth the fuss. The design of the restaurant is an extension of X Museum’s ethos – stirring up conversations between different disciplines – evidenced by the interior of the space which is tiled with mosaics evoking Mediterranean art and further bolstered by arches behind the bar counter. Conversely, however, their menu design is mostly inspired by Szechuan street food and homestyle recipes. Simply put, the innovative classic recipes and beautifully presented food create a juxtaposition of two wildly different styles that come together in a gorgeous, creative way.
Unlike the food you find in KOL-friendly establishments – the ones in which you’d rather share the food on your social media account than with your friends at the table – the dishes at The Circle are not only a treat for your eyes but also your stomach. Given the fact that everyone from couples on a date to professionals having a business meeting visit X Museum and The Circle, they thoughtfully lowered the heat in their dishes, without forsaking any of the taste. Likewise, The Circle belongs to the same company that runs The Bridge in Chengdu, which is led by chef André Chiang, the previous owner of Singapore’s 2-star Michelin restaurant, Restaurant André. As such, The Circle’s culinary team is well-versed in crafting quality food and draws on their extensive experience to find clever ways of reinterpreting classic Szechuan flavor in a global context.
Among all the dishes they currently have on the menu, the beef short rib bao is certainly my favorite. If I wanted to put on my art critic hat, I would describe it as an interactive installation that has deconstructed the stereotypical idea of bao, and reassembled it with adventurous ingredients and an approach that showcases the versatility of traditional Chinese culinary culture in a modern global context. Put another way, The Circle cleverly combined various ingredients to create new types of bao, and the one I had features a whole chunk of beef short rib, braised until it’s succulent and tender, its texture and taste effortless to enjoy. To add a bit of surprise, one side of the rib was dipped in classic Szechuan spices which tingle your gastronomic senses. What’s more, caramelized onions on top enrich the fragrance and sweetness, while mint leaves in the bao balance out the grease and give this dish a peaceful ending.
Aside from the bao, I would also recommend the 渣渣面 Zhazha noodle, which was seemingly inspired by 担担面 Dandan noodle and 甜水面 Sweet water noodle. The noodle is covered with assorted dried or deep-fried toppings such as dried minced meat, peanut crumbles, deep-fried onions, and so on, while a drizzle of spicy red oil lies silently in the bottom of the bowl. Mix them nicely before digging in, and get ready for that satisfying crunchy texture and cheerful slightly spicy taste. Compared to the traditional Dandan noodle, this one won’t leave your make-up ruined by sweat and you don’t need to worry about taking in too much grease during a meal that is ideal for dining with a date or business partner.
Currently, The Circle is open when the museum is, but according to Michael, they intend to extend the hours, making it a perfect meal for a balmy summer night. What’s more, the menu is going to feature limited-edition dishes inspired by the museum’s rotating exhibitions. For example, to celebrate the first solo exhibition of Jiang Sida – a performing artist and renowned debater – The Circle is about to release a new drink called “The Queen,” taken from the name of a performance piece that will be featured in the exhibition.
Read: Although China Ranks 15th for Most Amount of Museums, Beijing Is Home to the Second-Most Visited
Images: Zeus Zou
