Hold the Phone: Such A is the Best Café in 798

Who says being bricked up has to be a setback? After the demise of their Zhangzizhong Lu digs late last year, Such A Cafe owners Lucia Chan and Fang Chenyan simply dusted themselves off and moved on to open a new location in 798 Art District. Luckily for those willing to travel, or anyone in the adjacent neighborhood, it happens to be a major upgrade on the original.

Whereas the first café was cutesy and downhome, this new spot is sleek and spacious. In fact, they share the three-floor space with a furniture seller named Hommey Lab, so chic tables and sofas abound. The changes are best encapsulated in a far corner from the entrance, where you'll find an eccentric sunken ball pit with a hanging chair that couldn’t be better suited for the notoriously kooky 798 Art District (though is entirely ornamental – sorry kids).

Despite the fairly dramatic shift in ambiance, Such A Cafe’s coffee has remained much the same, and that’s a good thing. Something as straightforward as their RMB 36 latte exceeds expectations on account of a cotton-thick foam and subtle brown-sugar aftertaste. Try their oatmeal latte or ice cream loaded affogato (both RMB 45) for something sweeter and more distinctive, or indulge your inner coffee nerd with a handful of imported bean options from Ethiopia (for something floral in aroma with a fruity aftertaste) or Colombia (if honey and fruity notes are more your thing). 

Together, these features make Such A Cafe the best coffee option in 798, including the popular but comparatively dull Café  Flatwhite around the corner. Only Metal Hands near Wangjing Soho stands as a worthy nearby competitor. Indeed, the hutongs’ loss is very much this northeast neighborhood’s gain, at least for coffee fiends who like their java served with a side of fun.

READ: Still Waters Run Deep at This Newly Renovated Must-Try Gulou Café

Such A Cafe
Daily 10am-7pm. B27, 706 North Street 1, 798 Art District, Chaoyang District (138 1047 8818)
朝阳区706北一街B27

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Photos: Uni You