Exploring the Shops, Cafés, and Curios of Dashilar: A Love Story
For many of us, Beijing's essential charm is hidden in the nooks and crannies of the city’s narrow alleys, rather than the glamorous shopping meccas that seem to multiply in number up overnight.
Fortunately, Yangmeizhu Xiejie (杨梅竹斜街) which is just a stone's throw southwest of the touristy Qianmen area hasn’t lost its unique and artistic vibe, juggling both local residents, chic cafés, and vintage shops. Better yet, the 496-meter-long cobbled street is much less touristy than its Dongcheng counterpart, Wudaoying Hutong.
We took a trip to Yangmeizhu Xiejie to explore its multitude of hidden treasures. Here's what we found:
Stop One: Deep Inside (深深)
Deep Inside mainly sells secondhand curios that range from ancient pottery pieces to experimental ornaments, wood carvings, vintage jewelry, and other trinkets. As someone who frequently visits antique markets, I can attest that the prices here are more than fair, but a word of warning: you won't leave empty-handed.
What I bought: Two water glasses from Belgium (RMB 60)
Address: 6 Yangmeizhu Xiejie
Stop Two: Mofan Bookstore (模范书局)
Mofan Bookstore is housed in an old, two-story building with austere interior decoration. This Chinese-language secondhand bookshop also runs its own small printing press, but what makes it extra special is the collection of author-signed editions. While browsing, I stumbled upon a signed copy of The Penitent by Polish-American writer Isaac Bashevis Singer, who won the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1978. The bookstore also hosts literature-focused events such as writer book talks.
What I bought: Collected drawings of Eileen Chang, one of China’s most influential modern writers, published by the bookstore itself (RMB 60)
Address: 31 Yangmeizhu Xiejie
Stop Three: Caicifang (采瓷坊)
Caicifang features jewelry, ornaments, and other decorative items made from reclaimed shards of porcelain and ceramic that the store's owner collected during the early 1980s. The shop works with local museums to organize exhibitions and events in order to promote traditional Chinese crafty culture. Follow them on WeChat (ID: caicifang) to stay up to date with their events.
What I (almost) bought: A pair of glasses made of silver and ceramic
Address: 35 Yangmeizhu Xiejie
Stop Four: Nameless antique shop
If you’re a lover of antiques, simply browsing the wares here will be enough to give you goosebumps. The walls of this long, narrow, dimly-lit shop are piled with an impressive collection of antiques, or at least antique-looking objects, as well as traditional Chinese paintings. The owner, a talkative Yunnan'er, has spent over two decades traveling around China, collecting antique and vintage pieces for his store. Even if you don't buy anything, the stories he can tell about all of his beloved items are well worth your time.
What I (almost) got there: A glazed splicer pot that is purported to be over 600 years old
Address: 69 Yangmeizhu Xiejie
Stop Five: Meeting Someone
After several hours of walking around, it’s time to relax and get some grub. Meeting Someone makes for the perfect pitstop to refuel thanks to a wide range of food and drink options. The photogenic, star-studded corridor which leads from the street to the dining area is definitely worth a quick snap.
What I got there: A sizeable tuna salad (RMB 58)
Address: 99 Yangmeizhu Xiejie
But wait, there's more! We didn't even get to talk about Soloist Coffee, the Japanese restaurant Suzuki Kitchen, or clothing store Taciturnli. Click the links to read our full reviews.
More stories by this author here.
Email: kuang@thebeijinger.com
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Photos: Huang Chenkuang, ifeng
