Side Street's New Menu Unveils a Hearty Winter Feast With an Indian Twist

Ah, winter. Hutong-dwelling lao Beijingers promised us the coldest winter in 33 years and yet here we are, barely scratching those below-zero numbers (not that anyone is complaining). Even with the lack of bone-breaking cold, the renewal of the city's menus with winter grub is a great reason to revisit our favorites. Somewhat hidden, Indian-American fusion spot Side Street is no exception, and its vivid flavors and spice certainly make it a cozy spot to visit on a chilly evening.

The evening we ventured in, Side Street was hosting their weekly drag night with performances from two local drag queens against a screening of Ru Paul's Drag Race. We're happy to report that the drama on stage was more than matched by what we had on our plates, with a new winter menu composed of three sections: curry bowls (RMB 48-58), warm salads (RMB 42-48), and toasted sandwiches (RMB 42-28). All sections have a variety of carnivorous and herbivorous options.

The first dish we tried, a saucy bowl of sour and spicy roasted chicken curry with either rice (RMB 48) or quinoa (RMB 58), was served with an unexpectedly delightful deep-fried chili pepper. The curry was bomb, but perhaps more excitingly, Side Street owner Uday Phalgun mentioned that a whole platter of the deep-fried chilies may at some point grace the appetizer menu, which we wholeheartedly endorse given that it was gulped down in two swift bites.

The spicy lentil sambar (RMB 48 or RMB 58) is pretty much exactly how I, as a European, imagine Indian home cooking to be. This generous selection of slow-cooked vegetables is tied together with lentil soup and served over rice, making the dish, beyond doubt, one of the healthier options available (especially if paired with quinoa). However, we'd suggest anyone with a low spice tolerance to look elsewhere.

Now, we might cop flak from carb-haters for this, but in our opinion, the cherry on top of the winter menu is the Bollywood masala toasted sandwich (RMB 42), which is essentially spicy potato and garlic mash (similar to their potato fireballs), long slices of bell pepper, and stuffed between two pieces of bread. It comes served with cooling mint chutney, and as with all good things, it will get quite messy, but it is truly worth it.

If you'd rather stick to the burgers, Side Street has also just introduced a vegan falafel burger (RMB 48). That bad boy joins the three other plant-based sandwiches on their regular menu, making Side Street a veritable veggie haven in the hutongs. Just a warning: after you've taken on all this spice, you might need to down one or two glasses of IPA to cool down, but hey, what decent Beijing dinner is paired with soda water anyway?

Fancy a stiff drink to ward away those winter chills? Black Moth has just the thing...

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Email: tautviledaugelaite@thebeijinger.com

Images: Tautvile Daugelaite