Tired of Beijing Winter? Sail Away on a Sustainable Trip to the Philippines

Betty is tired. She’s officially listed on the manifest as “sea dog,” but she has been more than that. Mascot. Champion diver. Connoisseur of grilled squid bits. Today, she is sleeping after an unfortunate encounter with a jellyfish. A few hours later, Betty will recover. It’s hard to stay away from all of the fun.

We are three days in on a five-day/four-night island hop from El Nido to Coron in the Philippines. The Sulu Sea is an azure oasis of tiny islands, white sand beaches, and the occasional catastrophic typhoon. It also has some of the best snorkeling and diving in Asia.

Our crew – including Betty the sea dog – are all natives of the Philippines. Our captain is a former fisherman with four decades of experience on these waters. All are employees of Tao Philippines, a 13-year-old company that specializes in low impact experiential trips through the islands. 

Tao – the name means “human” in Tagalog – employs more than 200 islanders, many of whom previously faced a difficult choice. The decline of the traditional fisheries in the islands forced many young men and women to seek employment in the country’s crowded urban areas and even beyond. Old knowledge of sailing and seamanship were being lost. Island villages had started to become older and poorer. Tao’s founders began working with local communities and stakeholders to provide sustainable – and frankly amazing – island adventures for travelers from around the world.

Most of Tao’s boats are modified fishing vessels with double outriggers. Several decks can accommodate about 20-30 people and while the cabins are small, none of the guests sleep on the boat. Instead, each night the boat anchors off the shore of a different island and the guests sleep in bamboo huts. Yes, it’s rustic. Bathroom facilities are shared and basic (although much more advanced and cleaner than your average Beijing public restroom by a long shot). Each hut has a mat and mosquito net. This is camping, not Club Med. 

There’s limited electricity, very intermittent mobile service, and no WiFi. A healthy attitude toward animal life – both domestic and wild – is also handy. But it’s hard to argue with the view each morning as the sun creeps into your hut and just beyond your toes you can see the blue water and beach.

Each day is a new journey with stops along the way for snorkeling and swimming. The stops are unplanned as each trip relies on the experience and intuition of the captain and crew taking into account sea life patterns, weather, tides, and currents. The trip is not for the schedule-obsessed. Staff remind guests early and often that time is relative out on the water. Q: “When will we get there?” A: “Sometime before lunch.” Q: “When will we leave?” A: “Sometime after lunch.”

It’s also not an accident that what timetables exist revolve around food. Breakfast, lunches, and dinners are included in the cost of the trip, and they tend to be simple affairs of a protein, vegetables, and rice. The meals are also incredibly fresh and delicious, with a heavy emphasis on fresh seafood. Drinks are not included, but there’s a barman on board and drinks are paid for by swiping a simple electronic bracelet (the company stays mostly cashless during the trip). Happy hour tends to revolve around complimentary pours of “Jungle Juice,” a potent mix of fruit juice, sugar, and enough rum to stun a whale shark. 

While many of the trips involve boat journeys, the company also runs several camps and offers packages which combine multi-day boat trips with extended stays at some of their larger sites. Particularly popular is Camp Ngey Ngey, built on the ruins of an old resort but which today offers sandy beaches, hammocks, huts, kayaks, and some of the best sunsets in the world.

Tao offers trips departing from both Coron and El Nido. Of the two, El Nido is the more picturesque although it is clear the big developers have major plans for the small seaside town. Guesthouses line the shoreline for before or after the trip and both Coron and El Nido have plenty of merchants selling dry bags, snorkeling gear, reef shirts, and other island essentials. It’s not necessary – or even advisable unless you’re a US shoe size 12 trying to find reef shoes – to buy and pack in gear. 

Tao Philippines sailing trips tend to sell out quickly, so if you're interested in booking with Tao for Chinese New Year, contact the company as soon as possible. 

READ: Heading to the Beach? Don’t Forget to Bring These Swimming Essentials

Note: The author did not receive any compensation or discounts for this article. All opinions are entirely his own.

Photos: Tao Philippines, Jeremiah Jenne