Feast on Affordable Hot and Spicy Hunan Dishes at Jeff’s Cuisine in Zhongguancun

Hunan cuisine, or xiāngcài (湘菜), often brings to mind images of stinky tofu, rice noodle soup, and all manner of fish dishes absolutely drowning in fresh chilies. It's this combination that often puts Hunan food on a spicier rung than even that of Sichuan, and the newly opened Jeff’s Cuisine in Zhongguancun endeavors to deliver nothing less than the best at affordable prices.

Let's start with the Chinese name for Jeff's, 姐夫的小菜 jiěfū de xiǎocài, which literally means brother-in-law’s small dishes. Why? Because tradition states that it is the brother-in-law that is in charge of mastering family meals in Hunan province, and through sheer pressure and practice, it is often they who cook the best.

We couldn't vouch for the kitchen staff's relations but were more than won over by our first dish of stinky tofu (RMB 15). The deep-fried cubes of crispy tofu come topped with a layer of red and green chilies that overwhelm the 'stinkiness' and give way to rich, tender interiors, which to be fair, did little to allay the heat.

Moving to the mains, the head of steamed fish in chili sauce (RMB 89) is a must-try and features a 1.2kg fish head cooked in a special pot that allows the steam to filter through the head without overcooking it. Again covered in two-tone pickled chilies and chives, the fish is rendered – you guessed it – spicy, though the base soybean broth adds rounded savory and umami flavors to each mouthful. Add noodles to the broth for a hearty, self-contained homestyle meal.

For those not looking to wallow in spice, there's also steamed yam with ribs (RMB 39), which come bursting with flavor thanks to the long steaming process that the ingredients undergo.

To finish, nibble on Hunan-style sweets in the form of binghua tangjiao (RMB 16) – glutinous dumplings dusted with rock sugar powder. In fact, these warm "dumplings" are soft twisted sticks of rice-based batter, giving them a texture not too dissimilar to that of fudge.

The venue's décor is a combination of tasteful and traditional. The walls are adorned with paintings of flora and fauna, akin to those likely to be found in the homes of the restaurant's main clientele: young professionals. Another benefit of attracting the young is that they're relatively impatient, and Jeff's doesn't mess around, serving all dishes with a speedy efficiency.

All in all, these elements mean that Jeff’s Cuisine makes for a solid stop for anyone wanting to feast on authentic Hunan dishes in a modern setting without having to burn a hole in their wallet.

Jeff’s Cuisine
Mon-Fri 11am-2pm, 5-9pm, Sat-Sun 11am-9pm. L401, 4/F, Xinzhongguan Shopping Center (The Gate City Mall), 19 Zhongguancun Dajie, Haidian District (6264 7760)
姐夫的小菜：海淀区中关村大街19号新中关大厦新中关购物中心4层L401

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Email: tracywang@thebeijinger.com
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Photos: Tracy Wang