Curry Papa: A Quick, Flavorful, Affordable Lunch Outlier in Ever-Pricey Sanlitun

So you're hurrying through Sanlitun, and your stomach's growling. And your wallet's not exactly overflowing. And you're in a hurry. The sleek, Westernized neighborhood is often chatted up as Beijing's dining epicenter, but when it comes to tight jams like this, all that seems to spring to mind is pricey Taikooli gourmet spots or cheap western fast food, none of which are appealing for those of us trying to keep the pounds off. Thankfully, Sanlitun Soho is emerging as a decent destination for reasonably priced and light eats – a prime example being the recently opened Curry Papa.

This isn't a place serving the succulently spicy gravy that whisks away autumn chills and transports your taste buds to South Asia (venture upstairs to Khan Baba for that). Instead, Curry Papa serves up a milder, sweeter, variety reminiscent of what can be found at restaurants with more of a Malaysian vibe. This joint doesn't strike for any exotic authenticity, but it hits the spot with straightforward fare in an equally unfussy ambiance. For around RMB 40 per bowl, with a side of rice and a drink, the area's legions of office workers, laowai looking to quickly make their way through, or anyone else hoping to grab a bite without bloating their waistline and depleting their Weixin wallet will be satisfied by options like the Papa Curry chicken, beef fillets in curry (it's referred to as "Mexican" on the menu for some reason), pork chops in curry, and shrimp in curry.

We tried the Papa Curry (figuring it was a prime choice, being eponymous and all) and it did the trick – its battered poultry slices being crispy on the outside, with a bit of tender juiciness inside, soaking up the sweet curry and tumbling into our tummies with ease. The portion was just enough to fill us up without feeling like we'd overdone it, and it came to our table fairly quickly after we ordered (but not so fast as to leave us worried about freshness and schlocky pre-packed measures). Was it enthrallingly fresh? Did it boast any succulent flavors that'll leave us raving for days? Were there any textures or nuances that made us marvel over the kitchen staff's skill? No, no, and no. Nevertheless, Curry Papa stands as a sturdy, reliable lunch choice for anybody with a midrange budget that's grown weary of the same old same.

Curry Papa
No.8, Gongren Tiyuchang North Road (8590 0126)
工人体育场北路8号

Photos: Kyle Mullin