Fried Oysters and Quality Sushi at New Courtyard 4 Japanese Joint Omy in Sanlitun

Chef Suenaga Hidetada wields his long sushi knife like a saber, but his most impressive weapon is his blazing cooking torch. He aims it at the toro sushi – available to order at RMB 198 at the new Q Mex-neighboring Courtyard 4 restaurant Omy (stylized OMY on its official logo)– grilling it ever so slightly until it is juicy with a subtle smokey flavor. Sitting at the counter and watching the Japanese chef (who hails from Kagoshuma in southern Japan, and has worked in Tokyo, Switzerland, and Malaysia prior to making his way to Beijing) prepare the sushi is a true delight, amounting to dinner and a show in one.

At Omy (which is a play on a Japanese slang term for "yummy," and also pun for the English phrase "oh my!") the biggest draw is the offbeat originality of its best dishes. Case in point: the fried oyster platter with its juicy cuts of white seafood served in shells, memorable for their crispy batter casings, and each doused with three different stores of sauce: bitter tartar, Tonkatsu, and codfish roe. Other creative highlights include the grilled eel topped rice with soy sauce (RMB 138), which has a fantastic balance of sweet and salty.

Not all of those creative dishes are successes. I wasn't a fan of the eight flavored tofu platter (RMB 52) because despite their tasty toppings like caviar and sashimi, the tofu itself was too slimy for my tastes, but then again I've never been partial to the stuff. Thankfully my palate was much more inspired by Hidetada's more conventional – albeit delicious – fare like assorted sashimi (RMB 198), and slightly roasted salmon sushi (RMB 42).

The desserts are equally satisfying. Omy has a limited but excellent selection of sweets such as the mango mousse (RMB 48) which is fluffy light and ever so sweet, a perfect way to cap off a meal for even the most dessert-adverse customer. Sweet fiends will be even bigger fans of the tasty tiramisu (RMB 42).

The sake selection is also strong, including buzzed up-and-coming brands like Kid Junmai (RMB 200 for a 200ml bottle). There's also a tempting sake cocktail menu with half a dozen varieties with prices at around RMB 80 per glass, served at either your table or the restaurant's bar.

Omy's decor is light and bright, a nice departure from the dingier and generic Japanese joints that can be found around Liangmaqiao and Sanlitun. The plates have a sand grain texture and a similar color scheme to the restaurant's decor, all of which comes courtesy of designer Claudio Colucci, a graduate of the prestigious "Les Arts Decoratifs” in Geneva, before studying under the awardwinning designer Philippe Starck in Paris. Thanks to his easy input, Omy has a gentle seaside vibe that's both relaxing and inviting.