Back for More: Zhen Ai Zhongguo

Xi’an export Zhen Ai Zhongguo first opened in 2013, but we can’t help but feel it has been flying way under the radar since then. Set in a quiet office building just off Guomao’s main drag, Zhen Ai Zhongguo is a celebration of the hearty cuisine of northwest China – liangmian, hand-pulled noodles, roujiamo. These are, in essence, snack foods, but here they feel like an event, brought into the 21st century by playful presentation and a smart atmosphere.

The digong mian (RMB 38), a take on youpo noodles, is so expertly hand-pulled by the chefs in the open kitchen that it arrives with just a single long noodle tangled around the depths of the bowl. Test your chopsticks skills and see how far you can stretch it – although be wary of the inevitable chili backsplash. Some may find said chili to be a bit underwhelming compared to other versions of the dish around town, but there is homemade chili sauce available to up the spice level should you so desire. Roujiamo (RMB 68/six) come miniaturized, leaving you room to sample more of the menu (although we still challenge you to eat just one).

Outside of the staple dishes, the food is just as accomplished. The deep-fried chicken, Chang’an style (RMB 198) arrives whole in a huge wooden box before being whisked away by the server to be carved into manageable chunks. A tripartite cooking method – boiling, steaming, deep frying – leaves the chicken at once fragrant and incredibly moist.

Of all the thousands of restaurants in Beijing, we find we most appreciate these thoughtful attempts to elevate Chinese cuisine. Don’t get us wrong, we love a down and dirty bowl of lamian as much as the next average Zhou, but whether for an upscale dinner or just an everyday treat, Zhen Ai Zhongguo is hard to beat.

Zhen Ai Zhongguo
Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 5-10pm. 5/F, Zhonghai Guangchang North Building, 8 Guanghua Dongli, Chaoyang District (6712 1234)
真爱中国：朝阳区光华东里8号院中海广场北楼5层

Photos: Robynne Tindall