Taking a Voyeuristic Peek at Heaven's Gate

"Going Underground" is a regular feature in the Beijinger magazine in which we highlight the city's Metro stations one stop at a time.

TIANTAN DONGMEN, LINE 5

Voyeurism – not of the sexual nature, but of the whimsical – is the draw to this stop on the southern stretch of Line 5. Dug into the eastern peripheries of the Temple of Heaven, the escalator that ascends out of exit A1 leads you into a park that is magical, not only for the platform where emperors made celestial offerings and prayed for good harvests, but for the laymen and their hobbyist performances.

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As a tourist destination, Tiantan is historically significant. To locals, this is a place for interaction and performance – the city’s work yard for her residents’ inner-jokers.

Deep in the park, old ladies dance, the red fans in their hands gliding to the crackling sounds of a boom box. The dancers harbor no musical prejudice and are oblivious to the speakers that can’t process bass. They are here for the challenge of synchronized steps, glowing smiles and camaraderie. Further along, a trio of old men manipulate horsehair bows, and their erhu fiddles moan a traditional tune. If the day is right, more may join, and the Beijing piaoyou tradition will begin.

This is a rare chance to witness the amateur vein of Peking Opera, where ancient tragedies of greed, love and corruption are sung aloud by friends and strangers in shrill voices. The vibrating sandalwood and python skins that characterize the instruments add soulful texture to many a mournful tale.

Click below to continue reading the February issue of the Beijinger on Issuu.com.

Photo: Ken