Poultry in Motion: Try Lotus Leaf Chicken...If You Can Find It

When we were younger, the kids in the neighborhood would flee home for the loose change in their piggy banks upon hearing the chimes of the local ice cream van. Now. as adults. we've discovered a further sensory signpost that sends us scampering home to grab some change post-haste: the smell of the Hangzhou Lotus Leaf Chicken Man who frequents the Shuangjing area.

Like the Scarlett Pimpernel of perfectly prepared poultry, his visits are so rare and so fleeting that the notion of “getting him next time” can mean a missed opportunity to sample his wares for an inordinate period.

The idea of making Hangzhou Lotus Leaf Chicken Man the subject of Alleyway Gourmet was first pitched after we tried his signature marinated, boiled, lotus leaf wrapped and steamed chicken way back in January. Alas, since that crisp winter's evening, we never caught sight (nor smell) of him again.

Until today.

We almost missed out the chance again – ever late, and hurtling past him without so much as glance, it was that smell. That wondrous fragrance, sweet and distinctive, grabbed us by the nostrils and promptly turned us around.

When we first tried it around six months ago he charged RMB 18. We had caught him on a stroll from Shuangjing subway station standing 50 yards east of the northeast exit. And the day we wrote this, he had set up shop close to the Carrefour car park, 200 yards further east of Shuangjing subway station. He charged us RMB 30 this time, still a bargain but maybe on this sunny day, we copped the summer's day tax.

Our serving suggestion? Sliced, while still warm, over lightly toasted bread with mayonnaise and black pepper. Simple and delicious.

Read this an other dining articles in the August issue of the Beijinger magazine.

Photo: Joey Guo