Fresh Heir: Heritage Opens at Wanda Sofitel

For years, Le Pré Lenôtre anchored the Wanda Sofitel with the prestigious Lenôtre name, but now the baton has been passed to Heritage, which is striking out on its own with some experimentation and levity.

We started with the Cinta black ham (RMB 188), which nestled a gleaming egg yolk among shavings of the Tuscan pig and ribbons of braised leeks. The yolk had been coddled to a jammy consistency, perfect for spreading on the grilled bread served alongside. A Norwegian salmon with hazelnut crumble and roasted Jerusalem artichoke mousseline (RMB 228) was delightful. The fish quivered and flaked just so when the fork broke through its blanket of golden nuts. With the hazelnuts and the artichoke puree, the dish was a touch on the sweet side – the difference between a pretty young girl with two French braids instead of just one.

Their Australian lamb (RMB 298) was straightforward but well-executed: two medallions atop cracker-thin puff pastries accompanied by minced mushroom and roasted carrots and pearl onions.

Dessert was a passion fruit entremet (RMB 138), with layers of cubed mango, passion fruit gelée, mango pudding and caramelized milk. It looked ethereally light – then we dug in and met resistance. The density was not unwelcome, but be prepared for a much richer experience than those flavors typically suggest.

The new chef, Michael Jakovljev, loves modernist cooking techniques – from the ever-more-mainstream sous vide to experiments such as using the tops of his heat lamps to slow-cook sea bass. This novelty didn’t quite come through in the entrees we tried, but perhaps he’s still taxiing the runway. We’d come back to watch him take off.

Also try: Temple Restaurant Beijing, Aria

Heritage Daily 6-10pm, Mon-Fri 11.30am-2pm. 6/F, Sofitel Beijing, Bldg C, Wanda Plaza, 93 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang District (8599 6666) 朝阳区建国路93号万达广场C座索菲特酒店6层

By subway: 500m east of Guomao station (Lines 1 and 10)

This article originally appeared on page 24 in the March issue of the Beijinger.

Photos: Sui