A Leg Up: Roast Meat Make Man Out of You
Calling all those who crave the occasional Flintstones dining experience! About halfway down Fangjia Hutong, right next door to El Nido, sits 61 Leg of Lamb. The shop’s specialty is a whole roast leg of lamb served on a spit over a rectangular bed of charcoals. The trick is to slice away thin chunks of meat as you go, revealing rarer meat underneath which then gets its chance at a good char. When one plate of meat empties, it’s time to carve another layer off.
There’s no shortage of good grilled lamb in this town, but the juicy mutton here will make you put down your chopsticks, close your eyes and thank the heavens that you’re at the top of the food chain. Just for a second, though, ’cause you’ll have to exit the reverie to fight for your next piece.
As befits its humble demeanor, this little shop is strictly a family operation. Jin Bo lives at the address with his family, and the secret to his lamb’s savory succulence is a basting liquid developed by his little brother. He claims ignorance about the full recipe, but he did admit to salt, black pepper and oil.
For the non-cavemen, there are other, less meaty dishes to be enjoyed. Like platefuls of boiled peanut s and edamame beans (RMB 8 each), heaping piles of the garlicky cold cucumbers (RMB 8), grilled eggplant and enoki mushrooms (RMB 10 each) and large mantou slices toasted to goldenbrown perfection.
Depending on just how carnivorous your group is, you can get away with spending very little or end up splashing out quite a bit for this roadside meal. The leg of lamb comes in at RMB 42 per jin, with each leg weighing in between three to four jin. Drinks from El Nido next door can be purchased for a 20 percent discount if you’re taking away, which is a happy convenience. Once you’ve made quick work of the hefty slab of meat, Jin Bo will offer to divvy up the bones. Say yes, let the bones sit on the grill for a minute, then chomp away. Don’t forget to grunt happily as you leave.
61 Leg of Lamb. Daily 3pm-midnight. 61 Fangjia Hutong, Dongcheng District (139 0133 3774) 六十一号院碳烤羊腿, 东城区方家胡 同61号
By subway: 800m northwest of Beixinqiao station (Line 5)
Click here to see the Beijinger August issue in full.
Photo: Marilyn Mai
