Raising the Steaks: Premium Red Meat at The CUT
Wow. I’ve just eaten a steak that cost RMB 638+15%. It was fabulous. It cost twice the price of my new bicycle.
To be fair, it was a 10-ounce Wagyu rib-eye, The CUT’s flagship slab, selectively bred for its high degree of succulent marbled fat, and is flown in fresh, not frozen, from Australia (business class, I assume).
Eager to break the established ranks of Steak Exchange, Grange and CRU Steakhouse, The Fairmont’s new restaurant seeks its niche in peerless prime cuts served in a truly intimate environment, for dinner only. The burnished gold interior, dim lights and electronic beats get the mood just right, and the service from manager Faisal Majeeth and his team is exemplary.
Canadian chef Graham Kruse kicked off the meal with a delightfully deconstructed Caesar salad (RMB 95) – crisp romaine leaves and pancetta strips lay beside a puree of parmesan and anchovies, and tart, oven-dried cherry tomatoes. Foie gras on caramelized apple (RMB 135) did seem rather wintry, but the goose liver was among the finest I’ve had in Beijing. The steaks are wonderful, especially a grain-fed New York strip loin, also the cheapest on the menu at RMB 308.
Of the sauces, the rich truffle morel jus, though awesomely flavor-packed, rather overpowered the meat; we found the homemade tarragon mustard a better companion.
Admittedly, this tip only applies to those with the means to dine here. For the rest, be nice to your boss and maybe he’ll treat you one day.
Standout dishes: Crab & coconut bisque, 7-ounce New York strip loin, “CUT” apple tart
Also try: Steak Exchange, Grange, CRU Steakhouse
The CUT
Daily 6-10.30pm. 2/F, The Fairmont Beijing, 8 Yong’an Dongli, Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District (8511 7777)
朝阳区建国门外大街永安东里8号
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