Mediterranean Passion: Christelle Helf of the Olive

No stranger to cooking or traveling, Christelle Helf has been creating fresh cuisines around the world for the past 16 years. Born in what she describes as “the creeks of Marseilles,” Helf has always had a passion for exploring new foods and new places. From Europe to China, she’s maintained her passion for Mediterranean cooking and brings her love of olive oil, herbs and olives to, appropriately, The Olive. Helf took some time to dish to Agenda on her love of China, advanced prescriptions for fine olive oils, and what’s in some of her favorite dishes.

Tell us a bit about your background.
I was born in France and grew up in Marseille. Back in the day, my parents had a restaurant in Carry le Rouet and I used to help them during my free time. At 17, I decided to move on to cooking and graduated from studying cuisine in 1994.

How did your passion for cooking come about?
I found a passion for cooking Mediterranean cuisine very early on and took inspiration from my father, a fantastic pastry chef, and my grandfather, an amazing baker. I remember when I was around five, I used to beg my mother to let me make miniaturized dishes of the meals she was preparing.

What are your favorite kinds of foods to cook?
I like using fresh goose liver, all kinds of mushrooms, Pastis, fish and seafood, chocolate and fresh vegetables.

How should people decide what types of olive oil to use with which types of food?
There are two kinds of flavors – sweet and bitter. Sweet is best with pesto sauce, light fish, pasta, soup, rice, fish essences, and boiled foods. Bitter olive oil is best with pizza, grilled foods, vegetables, and grilled meat and fish.

What’s your favorite type of olive oil?
I have several preferred olive oils, depending on what I wish to cook. I like oils scented with truffle for meats and potatoes, with hazelnut for salads and seafood, and with sage or basil for the pastas. I also like extra virgin olive oil for its health benefits and will use it slightly at the end of cooking meats and vegetables.

Do you find that you bring influences from your hometown into your cooking?
I cook with olive oil and olives of course, but I also use lots of herbs from Provence such as rosemary, thyme, marjoram, bay leaves and oregano. I also like to use saffron, fennel seeds, Pastis and french pastries.

When did you decide to come to China?
I originally came to China in 2004 to visit my brother, but then realized that I could stay and bring my experience to help introduce Mediterranean cuisine to China. I had been a chef all over the world, from the United States to Central America, Greece and Italy. But following my love for China, I decided to come back and settle in Beijing.

How did you get the job at The Olive?
La Seine, a French restaurant located in Guangzhou, was looking for a French chef. After an interview and some food testing, they offered me the job and a few weeks after that, sent me to work at their restaurant in Beijing.

What’s the best part of your job?
I love getting busy behind the line, and experimenting with new dishes.

Could you share some of your favorite dishes?
I like the Fettuccine Chef Christelle (RMB78), a pasta dish that I created. It’s composed of shrimp, tomato cherry, and fennel seed flambeed with Pastis. The Mountain Salad (RMB 58) is quite good, too – authentically French with green salad, chicken liver cooked with bacon, potatoes and mushrooms, served with poached egg. Also, the Grilled Lamb Rack (RMB 158) is a great option, served with mashed snow peas with mint, potatoes, rosemary and mustard seed sauce. And for dessert, the Apple Pie (RMB38), which is presented as a bouquet of flowers with pastry cream and a pinch of cinnamon.

What is the weirdest thing you’ve ever cooked?
Ackee. It’s a fruit from Jamaica that is cooked with saltfish, onions, bells pepper and potatoes.

If you had to describe yourself as one food or dish, what would you be and why?
I would be Fettuccine Chef Christelle, because it’s a subtle mix of sweet and strong flavors.

When you’re short on time, what do you suggest for quick and easy meals?
I like to make Carbonara pasta, sandwiches with fresh veggies or ham with homemade vinaigrette.

What about when you’re not cooking? Where do you go to eat around Beijing?
Mosto, which has Mediterranean cuisine, is a good restaurant. For French restaurants, I prefer La Mansarde and Juliette’s; and Da Dong for Beijing duck.

Do your future plans include expanding your cooking experience?
Where do you hope to be in five years? Probably somewhere in Asia, running my own restaurant.

Mosto Daily noon-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm. 3/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu, Chaoyang District. (5208 6030) 朝阳区三里屯北路81号那里花园3层

La Mansarde Daily noon-2pm, 6-10.30pm. 35 Haoyun Jie, Zaoying Lu, Chaoyang District. (5867 0255) 朝阳区枣营路好运街35号

Juliette’s has recently closed.

Da Dong Roast Duck Daily 11am-10pm. 5/F, Jinbao Dasha, Jinbao Jie, Dongcheng District. (8522 1234) 东城区金宝街金宝大厦5层