The Codfather - Orange Tree & Fish Nation Founder Leng Jie
Who would have thought that the co-owner of Fish Nation, the only British Fish ‘n’ Chip restaurant in Beijing would be a Chinese chef trained in Cantonese cuisine? agenda had a chat with Leng Jie who just recently opened a new restaurant, Orange Tree, about the his choice to serve up good ol’ British nosh.
Have you ever been to the UK?
I went to England for the first time in 1993 to visit family and have been back many times. I’ve been to the Lake District, Newcastle, London and Scotland. I discovered that people in Newcastle are not afraid of the cold – they don’t wear many clothes! I think it is a very traditional country. It also has the best rock bands! When I used to be a guitarist in a band, I really liked the Rolling Stones.
Why did you open a British restaurant?
When I was in England, I ate a lot of fish and chips. I thought that they were so easy to cook. The thing that makes them special is that they are just so simple. So when I returned to Beijing, I had a great idea: I would open a fish and chip shop with a friend. In 2004, I opened the first chip shop and called it Fish Nation.
What does the mobile kitchen do?
Our mobile kitchen can cook fresh fish on site, every year we are involved in many events, including two fixed events: the Queen’s birthday party and a family event. We also cater for personal parties, international school parties, company events and music festivals.
How does the second restaurant in Nanluogu Xiang differ from the one in Sanlitun?
In 2005 I opened a second restaurant; I decided it would be in a hutong. Nanluogu Xiang has over 700 years of history. Starting from the Yuan Dynasty, Nanluogu Xiang’s structure has not changed that much since and has a lot of interesting history. I really like these kind of places and am really interested in this part of history.
What about your new restaurant, Orange Tree?
Orange Tree follows the same concept as the other restaurants, serving fish and chips. It’s in Houhai, which is also a very historical place. There are only 2,600 courtyards in Beijing; this kind I of old district is very precious. At Orange Tree Bistro you can enjoy your food on the terrace, while looking at the Drum and Bell Tower, or alternatively you can enjoy our red wine and fireplace.
Why should people dine in your restaurants?
Because the restaurants are casual, intimate, low key and normal priced. They are not too expensive or luxurious.
Is it hard to open a restaurant in Beijing?
It’s hard to get the license and the rules are very strict, so you need experience. You need to get lots of things approved like the restaurant’s name, sanitation, business permission, sewage disposal, registration, etc and only then can you get the restaurant license. It’s not easy! Also, communicating with the all the different government departments is not easy.
Do you like cooking? Where do you dine in Beijing?
Yes. From 1988 to 1991 I worked as a chef at the Beijing Shangrila Hotel’s Shang Palace Restaurant, so I have an understanding of Cantonese cuisine, later I became keen on studying party food. Besides Fish Nation my favorite restaurants in the city are Alameda, Da Dong, Serve the People and South Beauty.
What’s next for you?
I am thinking about selling Chinese food overseas. I think food culture is very interesting – it’s the art of living.
Fish Nation 1) Sun-Thu 11am-2am, Fri-Sat 11am-4am. Sanlitun Houjie (around the corner from Poachers Inn), Chaoyang District. (6415 0119); 2) Sun-Thu 11am-midnight, Fri-Sat 10am-1.30am. 31 Nanluogu Xiang (near Jiaodaokou), Dongcheng District. (6401 3249) 鱼邦, 1) 朝阳区三里屯后街（青年酒吧附近）; 2) 东城区交道口南锣鼓巷31号
Orange Tree Bistro Daily 11am-11.30pm. 27 Dashibei Hutong (near Yandai Xiejie, north of Houhai lake), Xicheng District. (6401 7797) 橘子树西餐, 西城区大石碑胡同27号（后海烟袋斜街附近）
Please note the Orange Tree Bistro phone number printed in the November 26-Dec 9 edition of agenda was incorrect.