The Alternative Guide to Peking Duck
The likes of Dadong and Quanjude are long-established Beijing Kaoya favourites - you’ve probably been to both at least once. But increasingly, new places around town are causing quite a stir, some even having the gall to tinker with the sacred recipe. Have a gander at these upstarts:
Duck de Chine
The kaoya here (RMB 228) are roasted for exactly 65 minutes over apple wood. This longer than normal cooking time renders off most of the fat, resulting in a leaner duck with a crispy skin. The hoisin sauce, made on site and containing over 30 Chinese herbs, can be mixed with a trio of peanut sauce, sesame sauce and sautéed diced garlic. Other inventive duck dishes include duck tacos (RMB 58) – crispy tortilla cups filled with duck meat, onion, peppers, shredded lettuce and a piquant sauce. Don’t miss the Lotus Duck (RMB 28) for dessert – sweet lotus root paste encased in miniature duck-shaped pastries. Duck de Chine also suggests pairing Peking Duck with Bollinger Champagne (conveniently available from their Bollinger bar), which might be somewhat of a stretch.
Lan Club
Brand new for Lan, the roast duck here (RMB 199) features several interesting twists. Diners are encouraged to begin by eating the crispy duck skin dipped into strawberry sauce before getting to the pancakes, of which two types are served - plain and spinach. As well as the traditional combo of hoisin sauce, cucumber and onion, the chef has dreamed up another. First, dip the duck into a spicy sauce, and then add slices of pear soaked in red wine and syrup, followed by julienned melon and mustard cress. The rich sweetness brilliantly compliments the succulent duck – an inspired combination.
Tamarind
This excellent new Indian restaurant (yes, Indian) at the Beijing Marriott Hotel Northeast has come up with an exotic twist on the dish - Tandoori Beijing Duck. The pre-marinated ducks are cooked in a traditional tandoor oven over high heat, with roomali roti (paper thin Indian bread) substituted for the pancakes, and a mixture of tamarind chutney and mint chutney for the fillings. Still putting the finishing touches to the spice rub, the duck will be on the menu from Friday July 18th.