The House that Boulud Built: Q&A with star chef Daniel Boulud

Photo courtesy of Maison Boulud à Pékin

In less than a year, Maison Boulud à Pékin has become one of Beijing’s most acclaimed restaurants, earning a record seven nominations in our Reader Restaurant Awards. Accolades are nothing new to chef-owner Daniel Boulud, who has been awarded the Legion of Honor from his native France and named “Outstanding Restaurateur” by the James Beard Foundation.

A one-man culinary empire, the NY-based Boulud owns nine restaurants, has written six cookbooks, hosts the TV series After Hours with Daniel, and has a line of spice blends. We caught up with Monsieur Boulud as he was packing for Beijing to launch Maison Boulud’s spring menu.

the Beijinger: Why open your first restaurant in Asia in Beijing?
Daniel Boulud: If I hadn’t fallen in love with America, I would probably have ended up in China. I’ve had many invitations to open restaurants in Asia, but Handel Lee’s invitation to open a French restaurant in the Legation Quarter offered a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to create something unique in an extraordinary and historic setting.

tbj: Who created the menu? What does it feature?
DB: Executive Chef Brian Reimer and I designed the menu once we had spent time in Beijing researching the best possible ingredients available on a consistent basis. We wanted Maison Boulud’s cooking to reflect a combination of what we offer in several of our New York restaurants.

tbj: How involved are you at Maison Boulud?
DB: My involvement means not only my personal input but the expertise of my team. With each new place I create, I take some of the top talents in the organization and place them in key positions. Brian and sous-chef Jarrod Verbiak, as well as our GM, pastry chef and sommelier, had each worked for me for a minimum of three years before being given responsibility at Maison Boulud. Of course Brian and Jarrod now have the freedom to create … but are in constant communication with me and my team when it comes to new recipes and presentations.

tbj: In China as in the West, people are cooking less at home but watching more cooking shows like yours on TV. Why? Does it worry you?
DB: People watch TV for different reasons just as they eat out for different reasons: to be entertained, socialize or to have exceptional experiences. TV programs that show quality food and treat it with respect help educate the public and make them more discerning restaurant patrons. Cooking and eating are the center of our existence and should have an important place on TV. As for all the “reality” TV – let’s sit back and see which shows last.

tbj: Describe the perfect comfort food.
DB: It is not sophisticated but satisfying, not fancy-looking but tastes delicious. It must have a soul and be rooted in a culture and a region.