New Openings: Mosto
Mosto had barely thrown open its doors before it generated a buzz big enough to power all of Beijing. Headed by Chef Daniel Urdaneta, formerly of SALT (click here for our interview with their new chef), Mosto take its name from the Spanish word for unfermented grape juice. Those familiar with Urdaneta won’t be surprised to hear that Mosto serves quality food at sensible prices. On the second day of opening, the flow of food and service were as smoothly executed as the Beijing Olympics. Guests will doubtless appreciate the funky wine list with its emphasis on new-world wines. Likewise, the smart menu is influenced by South American flavors, a specialty of the Venezuelan chef who personally comes to greet each table. For lunch, two-course set menus go for RMB 70 and three-course sets are RMB 85. Dinner is a la carte ranging from RMB 60-200.
The venue’s interior can best be described as smart and contemporary, also boasting an open kitchen and bar. Large doors lead to al fresco seating on the balcony overlooking the Nali courtyards, and the light jazz playing in the background further extends the relaxing ambiance. Mosto is elegant yet unpretentious, and versatile enough to cater for a quick business lunch or a romantic dinner.
I ordered the mixed green salad with Gorgonzola cheese to start. It was dressed in a piquant green apple and herb vinaigrette. My companion ordered the salmon ceviche with mango and baby arugula salad – perhaps a better choice in my opinion – the pungent arugula accompanied the sweetness of the mango salmon ceviche perfectly. For the main we ordered the beef tenderloin steak – a measure of any chef’s skills. We weren’t disappointed. Medium rare and juicy, just the way it should be, the steak was accompanied by roasted sweet potatoes and sautéed zucchini, all drizzled with a smoky chimichurri sauce. Then, out came the expertly pan-seared sea bass with herbed small potatoes, tomato ceviche and vanilla sauce. The subtle buttery vanilla sauce with speckles of vanilla seeds got my attention. The meal ended on a high note with a chocolate soufflé with a molten white chocolate center, raspberry coulis and vanilla ice cream (RMB 60). I couldn’t get enough. The food at Mosto is well thought out and reliable, following a philosophy that food is for nourishment and sustenance, not an expression of wealth and taste. Mosto deserves to do well.
Mosto
Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-11pm. 3/F Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu, Chaoyang District (5208 6030)
朝阳区三里屯北路81号那里花园3层
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