Jiumen Xiaochi 九门小吃

Named after the nine major gateways of the old walled city, Jiumen Xiaochi was originally located in Qianmen, before being selected as a national flagship tourist spot and subsequently relocated to Houhai’s narrow hutongs. Designed like a hawkers street, diners purchase traditional Beijing eats with a pre-paid meal card (minimum RMB 50, any leftover credit is refundable). Walk up and down the stalls to see chefs live at work, pulling noodles, chopping vegetables and filling dumplings. Most of the chefs are descendants of imperial chefs. Don’t leave without trying douzhi (fermented green bean soup) – an acquired taste, but a must-try nonetheless – baodu (boiled cow stomach dipped in sesame sauce) and nailao (a sweet yogurt soup) – all traditional street food that old Beijingers can’t live without. Peking opera performances Friday and Saturday 6.30-7.30pm.