Hidden in Plain Sight: Exploring the Historical and Artsy Near Dongsi

Vincent R. Vinci, Managing Editor | Sep 29, 2023 11:13 am | Add a comment | 345 reads

Hidden deep in Beijing’s hutongs and on the main roads in plain sight, there are a great many treasures to be found if you know where to look. These range from the historical, in the form of old homes, museums, and relics of years gone by, to secret restaurants and bars, to museums and halls hosting everything from art to historical collections.

We did some exploring and compiled a list of some of spots – be they converted temple complexes, bars and cafés, or proper museums – that are worth a visit. Even better, a few of these places have things going on over the holiday, so it’s a good time to check them out.

The Museum and the Art Project

South of Dongsi subway station, and named for the hutong in which it resides, Shijia Hutong Museum (史家胡同博物馆 Shǐjiā Hútòng Bówùguǎn) makes for an excellent foray into the history of hutongs – which are actually pretty ancient as an aspect of city planning – from ancient times to the modern era. There’s a bit of memorabilia thrown in, plus an overview of who used to call the siheyuan at 24 Shijia Hutong home.

North of Shijia Hutong and Dongsi, there’s yet another hutong museum, but this one is less focused on the actual history of hutongs and is instead more or less a hutong art project. The Dongsi Hutong Museum (东四胡同博物馆 Dōngsì Hútòng Bówùguǎn), founded in 2015 after the siheyuan in which it's located, was redeveloped and refurbished, and now houses a number of art installations and exhibits that blend into the courtyard house itself, and which make for a nice place to either snap photos or just sit and relax.

Entry is free at both hutong museums, but for the Shijia Hutong Museum you’ll need to scan a QR code and register your personal information (phone, ID, full name) before entering. The Dongsi Hutong Museum will have limited operating hours over the break. They'll be open on Monday, Oct 2, Wednesday, Oct 4, Friday, Oct 6, and Saturday-Sunday, Oct 7-8. Hours are 9am-noon and 2-7pm on the aforementioned days.

The Auction House and Art Center

Standing like a pristine monolith at the intersection of Wusi Dajie and Wangfujing Dajie is Guardian Art Center (嘉德艺术中心 Jiādé Yìshù Zhōngxīn). This massive multiple-floor space is an auction house that doubles as an art museum and space, hosting exhibitions of works by both Chinese and foreign artists.

Current exhibitions happening at Guardian include retrospectives on two greats: one on the French conceptual artist Yves Klein, and the other on the architecture of Zaha Hadid. These shows are only happening until Tue, Oct 3, though, so it’s best to get there and see them while you still can.

Industrial Complex Turned Mini Art District

Not too far from the National Art Museum of China lies C&C, aka 77, Culture Park. C&C Culture Park features a hidden exhibition space within its factory bowels, as well as some old machinery and all kinds of bridges, stairways and a rooftop – perfect for a few candid shots for the ‘Gram (or, seeing as we're in China, WeChat, Dianping, and RED).

Although exhibitions are generally limited and the experimental theatre there usually only puts on Chinese-language shows, it's still a nice little place to tool around in and explore.

Part Art Space, Part Leisure Space

Not too far from Guardian Art Center, hidden along Songzhuyuan Beixiang, is Temple 东景缘. This magnificent former temple complex is home not only to TRB Hutong, but tea house HUI and accompanying bar Voyage at Temple.

It’s also home to a number of permanent sculptures and art installations, as well as rotating exhibitions, chief among these being Gathered Sky, a permanent installation by American artist James Turrell. Opening from sunset to sundown on various days of the week, Gathered Sky is not to be missed. It's a way of understanding light and color with new eyes.

The Temple complex also hosts regular events like concerts and morning yoga sessions, most of which take place inside the main hall. There couldn’t be a more peaceful way to start a weekend or day off. You can find updates on weekly activities and get tickets for “Gathered Sky” via their WeChat account (ID: thetemplehotelbj).

Art, Coffee, and Cocktails

For art with a bit of coffee or drinks on the side, head up to Beixinqiao and Aoutu Space (凹凸空间 Āotū Kōngjiān). This sleek space with a massive upper level terrace hosts regular exhibitions of avant-garde art, performances, and related events like art fairs, gatherings of literary collectives like Spittoon, and more. They’ve got a fully stocked bar on the first floor, and offer coffee during the day as well. Currently, Aotu is hosting an exhibition by artist Y-Hatcher, focusing on the idea of division. It runs until Oct 7.

Back down past Dongsi and near Dengshikou, not far from where this list begins in Shijia Hutong, is shifter. While on the outside shifter might look like any fancy cocktail den in Beijing, it goes beyond that with owner Miao’s detailed menus.

Changing from season to season, each menu features simply named cocktails that are light yet distinct, quaffable yet able to provoke thoughts on the changing seasons of Beijng with every sip. For the less cocktail-inclined, there are fantastic wines available, as well as flights of boutique gins and other spirits.

Of course there’s an art space involved here, hidden in a room behind the bar, which Miao tells us features works by community artists and others. While smaller than most places on our list, the space is a nice place for contemplation, drink in hand, of the concepts from the artists on display.

After Holiday Bonus

Even though it will be closed for the duration of the holiday, there's one more spot worth a trip back after Oct 6 when it reopens. Or you can drop by during the holiday to admire this historical site turned art spot from the outside.

Art 8 (艺术八 Yìshù Bā), is a non-profit cultural and art space operating out of the site of the former Sino-French University, easy to spot to the east side of Imperial City Wall Relics Park along Donghuangchenggen Beijie. Art 8 hosts regular art exhibitions, salons, concerts, and other events, with a focus on French artists in particular.