Will the Oh-So-Ritzy Tango by Ala House Sweep Beijing Socialites Off Their Feet?

There are bars with a throwback vibe in Beijing, and then there’s Tango by Ala House. Aside from the vintage wood grain, green marble, puffy leather chairs, bow-tied and vested servers, and jazz pouring from the speakers, even the tall slender font in its logo evokes a bygone age, mimicking the lettering of Leo DiCaprio's take on The Great Gatsby to a tee.

Upon arrival at the newly opened, embassy-adjacent lounge (a sister venue to the CBD’s elegant Frank by Ala House), we spotted a spacious first-floor foyer where, true to the joint’s name, a handful of Chinese students were practicing tango steps under the eye of an instructor. However, sensing that we weren't there to dance, a smartly-dressed staff member was quick to direct us toward the Gatsby-esque logo on a bright neon sign on the second floor. Up the steps reminiscent of a wooden front porch, we reached the balcony-like atrium, flanked by leafy potted foliage, before stepping into the softly-lit lounge.

A handful of Chinese patrons sat inside, chatting away and sipping their cocktails. Tango’s tiny but well-lit stage was situated behind those customers at the far wall, entirely vacant except for a vintage standup bass left resting on its side. After sidling up to the bar, we were discouraged to hear our hostess clarify that the venue only hosts live performances on Thursday and Saturday nights.

Disappointed to hear that we'd missed the live action, we sort out the opinion of Nancy Jenkinson Brown, the hardest working woman in Beijing’s lounge singing circuit, who recently serenaded the venue with her soulful songs with the accompaniment of a small band. Of the venue, she says:

“Playing there has more of a performing feel. You’re very aware of the sound you’re creating, but the fact you’re on the same level as the customer keeps the intimacy, and there is the possibility to look the audience in the eye. Where Frank by Ala House is perhaps more earthy, hustle bustle, everyone on top of everyone else, drinks with a side of Jazz, a real feeling of an NYC music bar – Tango feels more Fred Astaire: top hat and tails, graceful, old school – the band takes the central focus point, which could possibly encourage people to pay attention to high-end, high-talent music whilst sipping a high-end drink. Which appeals. It feels like a place to book a table and come for the show after your dinner.”

However, the lack of live performance on the night we stopped by meant the joint was a de facto cocktail lounge. To the right of the stage were two bars, the smaller on the left loaded with whiskey, while the broader one to the right sported stacks of other spirits, some of which are used for fancy original cocktails. Tango’s haughty roaring '20s ambiance inspired us to try the whiskey-based Paciencia, one of the pricier options at RMB 128 (others on the menu range from RMB 108-118). The dapper bartender chipped our ice cube down, stirred it for what seemed like ages, mixed up the whiskey, coffee liqueur, and bitters with a few quick shakes and poured the mix through a sieve. It wasn’t the flashiest prep in Beijing by any means, but enough patience and care was employed to make it commendable.

The drink packed a strong, sour and satisfying punch, thanks to its mix of smoky whiskey and strong bitters. It’s a stiff drink, for someone looking to take the edge off and immerse themselves in that woozy Jazz Age elegance that Tango is clearly aspiring to. It was enjoyable enough to sip away on, and one should certainly expect nothing less for such a steep price, though you’d honestly get more bang for your buck ordering straight from their whiskey list. This features a pretty strong selection of the likes of 12-year-old Glenmorangie highland for RMB 120 per glass (or RMB 2,000 per bottle if you're really thirsty), Glenlivet 15-year-old Speyside for RMB 100 per glass, or Caol Ila 18-year-old Islay for RMB 200 per glass.

In all, we’re happy to hear that Beijing has a cozy yet regal new venue that performers are excited to play at. However, the ritzy vibe and eye-wateringly steep drink prices are likely to restrict Tango to a special occasion spot with an even more special someone. Despite that, it's less pretentious and stiff than fellow glamor aspirant Good Bait, and with a few more gigs scheduled through the week, the average patron just may be convinced to sashay on into Tango by Ala House a little more often.

Tango by Ala House
Daily, 5pm-2am (live music on Thursday and Saturday nights). 2/F, 18 Liangmahe Nanlu, Chaoyang District
朝阳区亮马河南路18号2层

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Email: kylemullin@truerun.com
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Photos: Courtesy of Tango by Ala House