Rock-Hard Buns: Delicious Bao and Beer at Courtyard 4's Modern Brasserie De Refter
In the lead-up to this weekend's 2018 Beijing Burger Festival at Galaxy Soho, our Rock-Hard Buns series will whet your appetite by taking a look at those vendors signed up to sling their wares at the veritable meat fest ahead.
Revamped and reopened by three French expats: Thomas Salou, Edouard Simon, and former Slow Boat head chef Clement Rol, this newest rendition of De Refter in Courtyard 4 has only been open for a couple of weeks but it's already drawing attention within the F&B community for its creative takes on the southern Chinese staple of gua bao, basically steamed buns stuffed with juicy meat, and otherwise European-centric menu.
De Refter's first floor is composed of a vibrant bar with wooden tables, comfortable metal chairs, and large windows – reminding us upper-end cafés found in Hong Kong – that look out onto one of the restaurant's strongest attributes: its large outdoor dining area. The second floor is more open, making it suitable for private parties and groups.
The bar is carefully designed with warm Edison bulbs and little flourishes like 吃包了么?, literally "have you had bao?" spelled out in neon lights, illuminating the 10 beers on tap and over a dozen of bottled Belgian beers, such as Chimay, Lindemans, Delirium, Rochefort, Bush, as well as selections from Japanese brand Hitachino and Italy's Baladin.
As for food, it's the gua bao that stand out here. Inspired by the modern Chinese diner Little Bao in Hong Kong, Rol has put his own creative spin on these puffy, meaty treats at De Refter, including Drunken Beijing Duck Bao, the BB Bao, Golden Chicken Bao, Touched by Truffle Bao (vegetarian), Fish & Bao. We were particularly fond of the BB "Beef Brisket" Bao (RMB 48), which is made from a cushier-than-pillows mantou bun stuffed with slow-cooked beef brisket readied to juicy perfection. Fried garlic, buttery bok-choy, caramelized onions, Parmesan cheese, and Sichuan pepper mayonnaise put it over the top and crown it a supreme drinking snack.
Below, we speak to Clement Rol, chef of De Refter, about his inspiration for these nifty burger bao as well as what you can expect from De Refter at this weekend's Burger Fest.
In your opinion, what are the most important elements in making a great burger?
For me, the most important element is the sauce that bring all the different dimensions of the burger together, as well as the bun.
Tell us about your signature burger. Name three reasons why it’s unique and potentially the best burger in Beijing.
My signature "bao burger" is the BB "Beef Brisket" Bao – slow-cooked beef brisket is topped with caramelized onions, mala sauce, and parmesan. Why is it the best? Because the bread is freshly handmade in-house every day, the sauce is well-balanced, and of course, our beef, which is imported Australian point end brisket slow cooked in beef stock for four hours so as to make it tender, juicy, and full of flavor.
What burgers and sides will you bring to our 2018 Beijing Burger Fest?
We will bring a chicken Vietnamese flavored bao (Golden Chicken Bao), the aforementioned BB bao, and some classic golden Belgian fries.
What drink from your menu goes best with the burger?
We'd suggest pairing them with Chimay Gold and Lindemans Kriek (cherry), whose fruity notes balance out the chicken flavor, as well as the Trappist Blond Chimay for its touch of fresh hops and spicy aroma.
Besides from your own restaurant's burger, what is the best burger you've ever had?
Beside from ours, my two favorite burgers in town are Slow Boat's, of course, and Q Mex’s, which is very well executed by chef Marcus Medina.
What foodstuff or condiment should, in your opinion, never sully a beautiful burger?
Ketchup should NOT be in a burger! (But maybe that's my French side talking [laughs]).
Taste De Refter's gua bao and 40 other varieties of burger at this year's Beijing Burger Festival. To learn more about what's in store, click here.
More stories by this author here.
Email: tracywang@thebeijinger.com
Twitter: @flyingfigure
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Photos courtesy of De Refter, Tracy Wang
