Xiao Ming, Beijing's Reigning Cocktail King, Adds New Xingfu'ercun DNA Bar to His Empire

Some superheroes have DNA that gives them the ability to fly or leap over tall buildings in a single bound. Xiao Ming’s cellular structure instead seems embedded with the bionic ability to open and operate one smash success cocktail bar after another. Nothing will remind you of that more than his newest venture, DNA Bar, in the Bentley complex on Xingfucun.

Before that, the Shandong-born proprietor was the brains behind Revolution, situated in the same complex as DNA, and his most renowned spot so far – the kind of place that even the most stubbornly casual patrons will make an exception to switch up their beer glugging for a value for money cocktail. His 2016 lounge, Róng, rests at the other end of the spectrum, what with its Instagram-worthy décor and intricate drinks that lure throngs of attendees dressed to the nines. His Miles and Hidden House lounges cater to those of us in between those extremes. And while all those bars except for Róng were shut down at the original spots by last year’s Great Brickening, Ming successfully moved them to new locations where they are still seeing brisk business.

What other superhuman feats are left for such a successful barman? As if to answer that very question, Xiao Ming recently christened DNA. True to its scientific name, the bar’s logo features a periodic table motif, though the cocktails on offer aren’t made with any particularly complex alchemy that it might otherwise imply. Though that's not to say that they're not deftly mixed to the point of being unique. For example, take the RMB 80 off-menu cocktail we tried – made with AK Bar Gin, a Chinese brand, along with fresh juice and a few house-made bitters – which was gobsmackingly sour, to the point that anything else that follows will pale in zesty comparison.

If we were to quibble, we'd say that the quirky glass with a handle that doubled as a straw was not for us, though may find a better home among the selfie-taking set. Also, the candied cigarettes used as a garnish might have seemed like a fun idea, but they figuratively fizzled like a tacky old stogie we'd rather put out.

Aside from some more gimmicky aspects, the bar takes a more serious approach to gin, stocking 150 kinds of it to be exact – quite the accomplishment given the bar’s nookish size. That impressive breadth of spirits, along with the creativity used in the cocktails, and the cozy, intimate atmosphere, are all enough to make DNA a worthy addition to Xiao Ming’s roster, even if it thus far falls short of its sister establishments comparatively dizzying heights. That said, it's laudable to see Xiao Ming take some chances, especially seeing as he’s now successful enough to play it safe and rest on the laurels of his more established spots.

DNA Bar
Daily, 7pm-late. Rm 15, Bldg 39, Xingfu'ercun, Xindong Road, Chaoyang (opposite Heaven Supermarket, behind the Bentley Sanlitun shop)
首开幸福广场幸福二村39号楼-15（天堂超市对面、宾利4S店后边）

Photos: Kyle Mullin