Zhen San Guan Chongqing Hot Pot in Workers' Stadium Brings the Burn

Having just reopened after weeks of renovations, we finally got around to trying Zhen San Guan Chongqing Hot Pot at Workers' Stadium north gate to see what had arisen out of the proverbial flames.

The first thing we'll say is forget Haidilao, or Coucou, if you really want authentic Chongqing hot pot, head to Zhen San Guan. Originating in Chongqing, Zhen San Guan's second floor is spacious and no-fuss, featuring grey bricks, red wooden dividers, heavy benches, square tables, brightly-lit private rooms, and even long-table rooms, each with 20 seats, that can be combined enough space for 60 people. Hot pot anniversary, anyone?

The main event, the pot of almighty fiery spice, comes divided into nine blocks (or jiugongge 九宫格, as they say in Chongqing). These compartments are not just for show, but do in fact “have different temperatures; put the ingredients that are easiest to cook in the center, which has the least spicy broth among the nine blocks, because the power of gas is strongest in the center; and put the meat and vegetables in the four central, outer blocks (in yellow in the image above). Then, the ingredients (duck blood and pork brain etc.) that require cooking via a low flame should be put in the four smaller, outer blocks,” explained Cao Hongling, manager of Zhen San Guan.

The broth itself (RMB 68) is infused with over 60 kinds of herbs and spices that are sent from Chongqing, with a base of beef tallow (rendered fat) which is then seasoned with fried chilies, ginger, and baijiu to deepen the flavors. If you don't want to blow your lid, you can also order their half-spicy or half-original spicy broth.

As for the sauce, forget your go-to majiang, go to the counter and mix your first authentic Chongqing-style sauce – smashed garlic, oyster sauce, cilantro, and a can of sesame oil from Sichuan. We loved the lao roupian (RMB 38), sliced pork that was so thick that it needed 30 minutes to cook. Zhen San Guan's black tofu was another highlight (hei doufu, RMB 22), its dark color owing to the black soybeans used to make it and give it an incredibly smooth but hardy texture, a bonus given that it's boiled in molten fire.

For dessert, try a deep-fried rice cake, each pillow-like square imbued with a tantalizing and crisp golden exterior and coated with melted brown sugar and mung bean powder. Finally, wash it all down with a pot of Sichuan laoying tea (老鹰茶), soothing your tongue, mouth, and memory so that you can pretend nothing ever happened and that you could maybe do one more lot of meat.

Zhen San Guan Chongqing Hot Pot
Daily 11am-1.30am. North Gate, Workers’ Stadium, Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang District (6551 9678)
镇三关重庆老火锅:朝阳区工人体育场北路工人体育场北门

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Photos: Zhen San Guan, Tracy Wang