Bracket Coffee Brings Unique Imported Beans, Sleek Ambiance to Workers' Stadium

Sleek, chic, and futuristic are all words that’ll spring to your mind from the moment you enter Gongti’s recently opened Bracket Coffee (stylized as {bracket} in their logo). It’s a refreshing alternative to the more retro, steampunk motif or the humble, old pal’s parlor vibe that have both proliferated at other cafés across town as of late.

And while its lighter, brighter, and more spacious aesthetic is a departure from its competitors, Bracket doesn’t diverge greatly when it comes to java. At least half a dozen staff members manned its counter and sported prompt, friendly service without a hint of the snootiness that can sometimes put casual patrons off at haughtier spots like Soloist. The bean selection and meticulous presentation that keeps Soloist at the forefront (at least for coffee nerds) hasn’t quite been matched at Bracket, yet what’s on offer at the new Gongti café is still nothing to scoff at, thanks to a menu that includes Ethiopian Yirgacheffe "natural misty valley reserve," Tanzanian "fully washed Mwika," Papua New Guniean "fully washed Asaro," Kenyan AB "fully washed Lenana," and Guatemalan decaf. They're each priced at RMB 55 for a hand pour (which comes with a small cup), or RMB 92 for a siphon complete with a glowing bottom chamber that'll make you feel like you're in a mad scientist's lab (not a scary evil scientist, but an intriguing, offbeat, over-caffeinated genius).

One of Bracket's best features is a series of simple icons underneath each specialty coffee that clearly indicate the levels of aroma, acidity, body, and balance, amounting to a crash course for the uninitiated that doesn't overwhelm like the novel-length menu preambles found at some upscale Beijing cafés. After pouring over those levels, I settled on an order of Papua New Guniea's "fully washed Asaro," both because it seemed like a tempting departure from the Ethiopian and Guatemalan coffees that come standard at cafés of this grade, and because the menu promised it would be lower on acidity, but more aromatic than its counterparts. Both points proved to be true, with the acidity being a refreshing slow burn that's unique to most specialty coffees I've tried.

That said, it took at least six or seven minutes for my order to arrive, and a couple of other customers who came after me grew audibly snippy with their barista because they felt their espressos were taking too long (the café's espressos cost RMB 32 each, lattes are RMB 42, Americanos are RMB 35, and mochas are RMB 45). So I wouldn't recommend Bracket for anyone jonesing for a quick fix before rushing to work at the last minute. But if you're not in a hurry and would like to share a cup of flavorful imported coffee with a friend or colleague, while enjoying a refreshingly upbeat atmosphere, then Bracket is the spot for you. 

Bracket Coffee
Bldg 3, Gongti North Gate, Gongti Beilu (186 1194 0409)
超级蜂巢店：朝阳区工人体育场北门北工体北路3栋

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Email: kylemullin@truerun.com
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Photos: Kyle Mullin