Ramo Redux: Fangjia Favorite Flourishes With New Family-Friendly Rendition in Lido
To say it’s been a rough year for Ramo would be an understatement. In recent years, Paca Lee’s brunch haven by day, DJ destination by night, was a fixture on Fangjia Hutong and known for nourishing eats and flavorful beats in equal measure. Then, once Beijing’s bricklaying laborers got done with it, Ramo was no more, just like so many other hutong mainstays in 2017.
That left Lee and her team to roll up their sleeves and do some renovating of their own and, only a few months later in mid-October, Ramo 2.0 opened its doors. Even more surprising than the speed with which this new iteration of the restaurant was readied is just how much it differs from its predecessor. For one, it’s way bigger, with a huge patio, a yet-to-be-completed second floor (with DJ booth and function space), and nearly double the number of tables on the first floor than its former Fangjia Hutong haunt. It has also been designed with nearby residents in mind, the children's ball pit all but within arm’s reach of the bar, and the space positively dog-friendly.
On the menu, old favorites like nourishing flatbreads (RMB 68 each) and hearty pancake and egg with sausage breakfasts (RMB 68 and 88, respectively) are still available, along with new must-tries like the tastebud-bursting cheese-stuffed beef meatballs and spaghetti (RMB 88), a half-dozen new burgers (the RMB 65 lamb patty with goat cheese especially standing out), and wholesome sandwiches (ranging RMB 58 to 78). The main attraction will likely, of course, still be what helped Ramo make its name back on Fangjia: the pizzas, those cushy-doughed, generously-topped pies for around RMB 100 for a large (give or take, depending on the toppings).
Lee was quick to note during our recent visit that the pizzas are now made with Italian imported flour, and the pasta features imported ingredients from Italy as well. The added care and effort is certainly reflected in the comfort-rich food, while the approachable pricing still ranks Ramo as an essential part of your routine, rather than a splurge-worthy occasional indulgence.
So this should all satisfy attendees of all stripes – Lido folks looking for a new local with more personality, or longtime Ramo devotees that have missed their favorite brunch and party joint since it was chai-ed. The vastly different location and fancier, yet simultaneously more family-friendly vibe may at first throw Ramo die-hards off, but the bold and colorful design, friendly service, and irresistible eats will all ease that quickly enough. Most of all, it's exciting to have seen this well-deserving hutong mainstay survive a tough year and now live on in a grander, more accomplished form.
Ramo
9-2 Jiangtai West Road (6436 1299)
朝阳区将台西路9-2号
Photos courtesy of Ramo, Kyle Mullin
