New Bar Fugue Hopes to Whet the Appetite of Sanlitun Whiskey Fiends With Over 300 Malty Options

Although you're greeted by a modern stained glass door upon entry at Fugue's new Sanlitun branch, this ain’t church, and there's nothing saintly going on inside.

Instead, the owners' piety belongs to whiskey, and they're more than devout. That's obvious as you flip through the eight-page-long Highland Whisky section of their bible-thick menu, which is shoddily handwritten on what appears to be construction paper.

Unprofessional as the menu's appearance is, it is impressively stacked, especially in its Highland section, includes 12-year-old Dalmore (RMB 70 for a single or RMB 140 for a double), 18-year-old Glenmorangie (RMB 130 for a single or RMB 260 for a double), 32-year-old Brora (RMB 2,000 for a single and RMB 4,000 for a double that is sure to leave you seeing double), and everything in between. Together, they amount to over 300 whisky varieties, a hefty enough stock to make other establishments more than a bit envious.

Somewhat smaller, but nonetheless impressive selections of Lowland, Campbelltown, and Japanese whiskeys, along with bourbons and ryes, also on-hand in vast varieties of price and age. Offbeat rarities like Puni Italian Malt Whisky (which I’ve never heard of, despite my years of boozing … or ahem, research) also made the visit to Fugue's new digs more than worth saving up for a quick return.

These offerings ensure Fugue has something for both seasoned malt devotees and wet-behind-the-ear novices looking to try more run-of-the-mill cocktails like an old fashioneds or whiskey sours for around RMB 70 each.

Those cocktails are off menu and amount to nothing special, which is slightly disappointing given the otherwise strong selection. But no matter – there’s swaths of other bars in Sanlitun catering to cocktail enthusiasts as of late (Toy Box, Press Release, Good Bait … the list goes on and on and on). Meanwhile, the neighborhood’s hardcore whiskey set will surely appreciate having something aimed at them.

A seemingly out-of-left field addition to Fugue is the far wall decorated with classic LP’s by Miles Davis, John Coltrane, among other jazz greats. It’s an odd addition that hints that Fugue doesn't really know what it wants to be but all the same, gives it a curious and quirky edge, and is likely to be a hit for anyone that enjoys consuming jazz with their stiff drinks, which is a sub-section of humanity all in itself.

All in all, this new Sanlitun branch uses a very similar formula to what Fugue uses at its Ditan Park-adjacent location, which opened in 2014 (they also have locations in Chengdu and Nanjing), although this new branch does have a more posh, Sanlitun-apt vibe compared to the hutong loft aesthetic at their older spot. But Fugue's heart much remains the same, and its key draw is its eclectic, wide-ranging whiskey list, a strong attribute that goes some way to rendering its quirkier aspects moot.

Fugue
Daily 6pm-2am. Xindong Lu, Shoukaibojun, Chaoyang District (5723 7117)
朝阳区三里屯新东路首开铂郡

Daily 6pm-2am. Hepingli Meitan Dasha, Dongcheng District (8426 1867)
东城区和平里煤炭大厦

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Email: kylemullin@truerun.com
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Photos: Courtesy of Fugue, Kyle Mullin