Awe-Inspiring Temples and Bohemian Living With a Short Break in Siem Reap

Siem Reap is the main jumping off point for the UNESCO World Heritage listed Angkor Archeological Park, home to the ancient cities and temple complexes of Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom (and many more). The town itself is understandably touristy, yet maintains a relaxed, bohemian vibe, with world-class wining and dining options, and a thriving creative scene. A four-night stay is enough to visit the majority of the major temples and fit in some quality time shopping and relaxing in the town center.

Sky Angkor Air do offer direct flights from Beijing to Siem Reap three times a week during peak season, although you will need to check the website for the up-to-date schedule. Alternatively, there are multiple flights via Guangzhou or Hong Kong, for a total trip time of around seven to eight hours. Note that while December and January are the best time to visit Siem Reap in terms of the weather, this also makes it peak season, so major sights may be busy and hotel prices higher than usual.

Do
Angkor Archaeological Park, obviously. Even if you are not an archeology buff, the tumbling stone structures rising out of the jungle will take your breath away. I recommend spending at least three days exploring the various temples and buildings, giving you time to fit in visits at different times of the day (sunrise being the most popular – my guide told me up to 10,000 people visit Angkor Wat for sunrise every day). There are a huge number of tours available, from luxury air-conditioned jeep tours to off-road cycling adventures. I did a fun and affordable sunrise cycling tour with Angkor Cycling Tour or alternatively, ask your hotel to arrange a tuk tuk and explore the sights at your own pace.

You will need to purchase a pass to visit the park area, which is available for one (USD 20), three (USD 40), and seven-day (USD 60) durations. Once you have seen the major sights of Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom, which are located about 7km north of town, consider heading east to the Roluos group of temples, which are older than Angkor Wat and see far fewer visitors.

Stay
Siem Reap has a bewilderingly wide selection of hotels to suit every budget, from the extravagant (try Amansara from USD 1,380 per night) to the stringiest of shoestrings (The Luxury Concept Hostel offers beds from USD 5). However, if you’re only going for a short trip, make it count and splash out on a stay at Shinta Mani, a serene resort designed by acclaimed architect Bill Bensley. The resort is both gorgeous and socially conscious; they work with underprivileged youth to help them start a career in hospitality.

Eat 
Khmer cuisine, or more generally, Cambodian cuisine, shares some similarities with the cuisines of Thailand (although with less chili, sugar, and coconut cream) and Vietnam (with which it shares its French colonial heritage). Dishes make plentiful use of fermented and pickled ingredients, as well as spices such as black pepper. Key dishes, which you will find on the menu of all restaurants, from the cheapest stalls to fine dining, include chha kuy teav (stir-fried flat rice noodles), lok lak (marinated cubes of beef stir-fried and served wuth black pepper sauce), and amok trey (fish mixed with an aromatic spice paste and steamed in a banana leaf). 

Travelers with a hankering for home comforts won't go hungry either - there are a huge number of restaurants serving very decent western food, from wood-fired pizza to authentic French, and many of the more tourist-oriented local restaurants will have a limited menu of western dishes such as eggs and sandwiches. 

Below are a few of the most popular choices in Siem Reap:

• Fine dining restaurant Cuisine Wat Damnak serves remarkable Cambodian food, combining traditional flavors with French techniques. It is also the only restaurant in Cambodia with a place on  San Pellegrino Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list. 
• Rohatt Cafe, in the trendy King's Road shopping complex, serves Cambodian (try the fried rice noodles with shrimp) and western dishes for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. They also have a solid drinks menu, and draft beers for USD 0.5 during happy hour. 
• Haven is both a restaurant and a social enterprise, providing hospitality training for underprivileged youth from poor rural areas. Grab a seat in the expansive open-air yard and feast on well-executed versions of classic local dishes. 

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Photos: Robynne Tindall