Savor the Sweet-Salty Tastes of Zhejiang at Rong Xiao Guan, Guomao

Chinese food, some say, is not for the adventurous. So if you're not a daredevil foodie but would still want to have your fill of authentic Chinese flavors, then you can head out to Rong Xiao Guan at the basement of Park Hyatt in Guomao.

The food is characteristic of Zhejiang cuisine: Many of the viands are soy sauce-based, which gives them that sweet-salty balance compared to if they had used just plain salt alone, and are akin to Shanghainese or Cantonese food.
 

We tried their signature salted rice served in stone pot (RMB 28), reminding me more of Japanese than Chinese fried rice, perhaps because it was not as salty and was instead infused with more seafood flavor, accompanied by what appeared to be a fish head! Like most variations of Asian fried rice, it could be eaten as a meal unto itself.
 

For the main dish, we selected the stewed chestnuts with black pork ribs (RMB 78). The meat was particularly tender and the chestnuts complemented the sweet soy-based sauce, recalling a Spanish Caribbean or Latin American stews as well as Philippine adobo, minus the vinegar and chilies. 
 

The braised three kinds of seafood (RMB 168) is a must for seafood lovers. Although it is heavily laden with chilies and oil, the seasoning was subtle. The shrimp were deep fried to a crisp so that they can be eaten whole. I wasn't particularly fond of the fish in this dish, simply because it was a little too overpowering for my tastes. Nonetheless, it was properly cooked and delicate.

The scalded seasonal vegetables (RMB 28) were nothing exceptional and were seasoned with something which, again, tasted like soy sauce. However, they went well with the rice, ribs,and fish, sort of cleansing the palate in between each mouthful of the main dishes.
 

Overall, I would say that the flavors of Rong Xiao Guan's dishes are not overly strong and can, therefore, be a good introductory meal for those trying out Chinese food for the first time.

Rong Xiao Guan is a contender for Best New Chinese Restaurant in this year's Reader Restaurant Awards. Head here to place your vote now!

Photos: Hong Maozi