What's New Restaurants: The Kitchen Table, W Beijing Chang'an

Like the rest of the hotel, there is a definite “see and be seen” vibe to the W Beijing’s all-day dining restaurant The Kitchen Table. However the slick modernity hides playful nods to the hotel’s Beijing location, for example, a wall of golden decorations shaped like jiaozi and designed to emulate the golden knobs found on the doors of the Forbidden City. Take in the décor while enjoying the very reasonably priced lunch buffet (RMB 198 + 15 percent service charge).

The buffet is competent, but most will find the evening a la carte menu to be of greater interest. As the restaurant’s name suggests, the emphasis is on family dining, so expect big portions and casual service. The leading light of the a la carte menu is the Forbidden W Beef Burger, a veritable mountain bursting with Australian beef, Périgord foie gras, prosciutto and a mustard-spiked mayonnaise, among other accoutrements. Come with friends, or prepare for one hell of a food coma. If you are a fan of culinary artistry, be sure to order the Alinea-inspired Choco-Nut Explosion. We won’t spoil the surprise by describing it here, but suffice to say that while it’s maybe more gimmick than gourmet, you can’t fault the creative ideas on show.

The man behind this culinary merriment is chef Gunnar Kuchenbecker. Kuchenbecker joins W Beijing Chang’an after a stint at W Hong Kong, where he established the Sunday brunch at all-day dining restaurant Kitchen as one of the best on the local scene. He has similarly big ambitions for W Beijing, with plans for a champagne brunch on the restaurant’s sunken terrace, replete with iced foot baths once the warm weather hits. We’ll see you there. 

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Email: robynnetindall@thebeijinger.com
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Photos: Ken