A Veritable Feast from EAST Beijing

I've been eagerly anticipating Feast since I learned that Rob Cunningham, former executive chef at Capital M, had signed on to lead it. After trying it earlier this week, my stomach tells me the anticipation was well-founded.

EAST Beijing draws upon the design philosophy of the Opposite House, which is also built by Swire Hotels, but it's all grown up. It hasn't fully left behind the cool bohemian feel of its older sister, but you can tell EAST definitely means business.

Our favorite starters of the night were a pan-fried Foie Gras (RMB 108), which was crisp and melty without being overpowering, and roasted scallops (RMB 98) that, like a football player forced to take up ballet for agility, walks that fine line between meaty and delicate.

Feast's menu is a mix of western and Asian items, offering a little something for everyone. A coconut poached chicken salad (RMB 58) had an interesting journey to it, starting off sweet and then winding its way through citrus and heat.

On to mains, The ribeye bordelaise (RMB 248) comes with a happy hunk of poached bone marrow and had a bold swagger to it, mostly thanks to its red-wine sauce and roasted shallots. A massive rustic style bouillabaisse (RMB 398) comes with an assortment of delicious sea treasures (lobster, prawns, scallops, etc.) and is quite shareable, especially if you're going family style with a group.

If you're looking for something homier, the simple flavors of the prawn linguine (RMB 88/108) and the braised tofu (RMB 68) are worth a try. The flavors on both weren't particularly new, but they were comforting and I found myself going back to them even after the proteins had arrived.

With its crunchy meringue and luscious cream, Chef Cunningham's pavlova (RMB 58) is the star dessert. I'd recommend the oolong tea creme brûlée (RMB 48) for non-sweet tooths, as the lightly acrid taste of the oolong adds depth to the custard. Don't tell my mom (or my dentist), but I tried all the desserts, and the soft-centered chocolate pudding (RMB 68) and a peach and vanilla trifle (RMB 38) were also winners in their own rights.

Hotels and their respective restaurants may be best set up to accommodate out of town visitors, but that doesn't mean we can't enjoy the fruits (and meats) of their labor too. Sometimes we need a getaway from within our own city, and a visit to Feast is one such experience. If you're looking for the full treatment, check out EAST's opening specials, which run through the end of the year.

Feast (Food by EAST)
11.30am-10.30pm, Mon-Fri. 11.30am-3pm, 5.30am-10.30pm Sat-Sun.
2F, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District
朝阳区酒仙桥路22号二层 (8414 9820)

Photos: Marilyn Mai