Just Salad Bar Keeps It Literal in Gulou
Just Salad might confuse ladies who lunch. "Finally!" these socialites will think, "A place where I can pick at salads and get tipsy on vodka martinis." Imagine their confusion, then, when they're greeted not by a ritzy hotel bar, but by a shabby chic bungalow. Picture a hipster grandmother and her post-grad granddaughter living under one roof and you'll get an idea of the bar's decorating scheme. The plush, flowery armchair by the window and the kitschy figurines lining the shelves? Those would be grandma's. And the Xiao Ba Wang (basically a Chinese Nintendo 64) in the interior room and collection of mix CDs on the second floor? These look like they used to reside in a college dorm room not too long ago.
The ladies who lunch have the right idea, food-wise. As the name proclaims, the bar serves just salads. But while kept women might not be too comfortable in this cozy hang-out, anyone else will be charmed by the tasty fare. Each of the 25 salads is detailed in careful script on the handwritten menus and this meticulousness translates into the dishes. The curry chicken salad (RMB 38) is made-to-order, creating a delightful combination of temperatures and textures. The chicken is hot and tender, the diced apples cool and crunchy, and the raisins bring out the subtle sweetness of the curry.
The bar serves the usual stand-bys—Sex On the Beach (RMB 40), White Russian (RMB 35), Mojito (RMB 40)—with a handful of original creations, such as the Dangerous Marcelo (RMB 35). Despite its pink hue and maraschino cherry garnish, this cocktail is a potent mix of bourbon, vodka and apricot brandy, and it ends up tasting like Jim Beam’s bratty little sister. The alcohol selection is limited, but the crowd favorites, such as Grey Goose (RMB 45), Bombay (RMB 20), and Johnnie Walker Black (RMB 30), are all here.
Climb up the steep and slightly narrow stairs—careful if you’ve had a few Dangerous Marcelos—to the second floor, which is separated into two rooms. One has a makeshift DJ booth where you can play music from the aforementioned mix CD collection. The other room has a library of Chinese-language manga and a small selection of English novels ranging from Animal Farm to Bill Clinton’s memoir. Some old economics and accounting textbooks are also up for perusal, if you’re so inclined.
Brave another short flight of stairs to the rooftop patio, which is a welcome departure from the cramped indoor space. A lovely view of Gulou and Zhonglou is framed by hanging plants. A small flower garden blooms by the tables. At night the fairy lights covering the roof are turned on and the candle lanterns are lit, creating a whimsical environment, especially if there's a light breeze.
There is a thrown-together feel to the establishment, which you will either find charming or amateurish. Having only opened two weeks ago, Just Salad is clearly still working out the kinks. My cocktail wasn’t properly strained and the waitresses had a little trouble remembering how to make my chicken salad. So maybe Just Salad is still a work-in-progress, but the staff is personable, the seating is comfy, and if nothing else, the laidback atmosphere and quirky décor will make you miss both your grandma's house and your early twenties.
Just Salad. Daily 1pm-2am. 100 meters west into Dashibei Hutong North entrance, Gulou, Xicheng District (134 8871 3633) 西城区鼓楼往西100米大石碑胡同北口
