Falafel Frenzy: Al Safir Opens Near Xiaoyun Lu

Just 200 meters east of Home Plate, Al Safir is another delightful anomaly on a backstreet dominated by Chinese restaurants. Resolutely down-to-earth, it seats only around 15 diners inside, and the nearest bathroom is the public facility just along the road. But if the decor is sparse, the food is full of heart.

I’d rank the falafel (RMB 20) with the best in town. Fried to a dark, crisp crunch, the coating gives way to a warm crumble of chickpea inside. Wrapped in pita, or used to mop up one of the dipping dishes, it’s unmissable.

There’s more flavorful baba ganoush (RMB 20) elsewhere, but Al Safir’s is creditable enough. It’s served in traditional style with red and green bell peppers, so if you want your mashed aubergines straight up, order the moutabal (RMB 20) instead. Aside from the regular hummus (RMB 20), there are numerous alternative twists on the chickpea dip. The qodsiyah (RMB 25) introduces the pungent flavor of stewed fava beans, while the mosabaha is hummus deconstructed: unmashed chickpeas with tahini and olive oil (RMB 25). One portion of thin pita pouches is enough for two, but extra orders are only RMB 5.

Two can share the mixed BBQ: chicken, beef and lamb on a bed of onions and flatbread (RMB 80). For meat with more subtle, warming flavors, order the mandy (RMB 50), spiced roasted chicken or lamb served on a bed of cardamom-infused rice. If you’re eating alone, try the chicken shawarma or snack on meat, cheese or spinach patties (RMB 5). Catering services are also available.

Standout dishes: Falafel, mandy chicken

Also try: Cedar’s, Dareen Coffee

Al Safir 阿拉伯餐厅 Mon-Sat, 10.30am-10.30pm. 35 Xiaoyun Lu courtyard (from Dongsanhuan Beilu, head 20m north of Xiaoyun Lu intersection and take the first right), Chaoyang District (5130 4243) 朝阳区霄云路35号院（东三环北路,过霄云路路口, 往北走20米, 到第一个路口右转）

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Photos: Judy Zhou