S.T.A.Y-ing Alive: Yannick Alleno Brings Michelin Class to Shangri-La

Beijing is a difficult city to run a Western restaurant in. Too many competitors. Always the next greatest thing. Ridiculous rents. And as always, the challenge of getting more than just the expats to appreciate your food. I never had the pleasure of eating at the late Blu Lobster, but from all accounts, it seemed to be a dynamic, creative establishment. Three years on, S.T.A.Y by Yannick Alleno has opened in its place - I attended their opening lunch yesterday (September 16) - and they're taking a more determined approach to hooking in the locals.

It's a simpler concept than its predecessor, Blu Lobster. And honestly, maybe a smarter one, given its location (westside, inside the Shangri-La Hotel), as it will appeal more to Chinese. Essentially, it's pared-back French dining, suited to sharing between family and friends - "Simple Table by Alleno Yannick." There are Lazy Susans on the table, and chopsticks next to your wineglass.

There are some Alleno classics - you can't bring Michelin stars to Beijing without bringing a few Michelin-worthy dishes, it seems. I tried a curious-looking sea urchin, caviar and quail egg dish, out-of-this-world with umami. Dip your bread in it like toast soldiers with a soft-boiled egg: the results are A-plus.

Ingredients are a blend of local and imported. There's seafood hailing from farms in Dalian, while their wagyu is flown in from Australia. Interestingly, the wagyu was both presliced and cooked through - no pinkness to the meat.

The dessert bar is also certifiably awesome. Individual desserts are displayed in glass cabinets, and jumbo candy jars are filled with toppings, sides and mignardises. Pastry chefs help you finish your dessert, and ice-cream sundaes are available upon request. Think, DIY soft-serve stations at buffet restaurants: Kind of like that, but a million times better because six pieces of caramel brittle on my sundae - oh yes.

Honestly, it's a good show. The lengths they've gone to to make Western food that remains appealing to the expat whilst accessible to the local is admirable. The dessert bar is class. They're turning out good dishes. Nice work, Chef Alleno, nice work.

Photos: Susan Sheng