Shake 'Em Buns: 'Tis the Seasoning
When asked “what makes people happy?,” one colleague of mine answered “food, sleep and sex.” Assuming that she’s correct, a combination of two of those three could only be a good thing. Enter Shake ‘Em Buns, a Hong Kong burger chain bringing sexed-up patties to Beijing. With names like “Debbie Does Dallas” and “Happy Threesome,” Shake ‘Em Buns will have you blushing as you order. We went along to the official opening last night, partook in the finger food – and were thus spared from needing to ask the server for a “Philly Willy.”
We were surprised to hear that they source their beef domestically – quality-wise, it’s definitely up there with Fatburger. Patties on their sliders (RMB 65 for a “Happy Threesome”) were hefty and generous; almost as thick as the bun. Similarly, their chicken wings are small but meaty, with a cracking, almost-audible crunch as you bite in. Flavor-wise, they could stand to kick it up a little – all the basic flavors are there, and the ingredients are fresh and good in terms of quality – we’d just like to see more seasoning. One of our dining companions solved the issue by slathering his sliders with a lick of Shake ‘Em Buns' excellent house-made ranch dressing.
The day after their official grand opening we popped in for lunch-time and tried the “Cushin’ for the Pushin” combo (RMB 72). We were sorry to be faced with bland burger, version 2.0. The same could be said of our “Creamy Choco Love” shake (RMB 35) – a pleasantly sweet, albeit somewhat watered-down experience. Considering the not-so-sizeable portions and “aspirational” price range of their menu offerings (burger combos cost up to RMB 80), our lunch left us feeling full, but not fully satisfied.
Notable exception to the above was the Hot Chick, where the marinade lent the chicken a smoky, savory tang. A judicious dollop of mayo is a must with this sandwich, but we’d definitely come back for this one. Bonus points for their import soda selection, with harder-to-find cans like Cherry 7UP on offer.
To be fair, we chalk these food foibles up to growing pains as this new venue cuts its teeth amongst its heavy-hitting burger rivals. Situated inside the China Central Place (Huamao) complex in the heart of the CBD, Shake ‘Em Buns will benefit from its strategic location, while the well-executed décor (industrial chic meets '50s diner meets Old West, with a graffiti wall to boot) should bring in a fair amount of business. Currently, they offer deliveries within a ten-minute bike ride of China Central Place, but we’re told they’re making arrangements with KK Rabbit to bring their burgers Beijing-wide. Hopefully, the under-seasoning is a preliminary early-days-yet issue – the ingredients are great, and they deliver to our office. Score.
Shake ‘Em Buns. Unit 105, Bdg 4, China Central Place Apartments, 89 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang District (8588 8569) 朝阳区建国路89号华贸公寓4号楼105号
Photos: Jerry Chan & Joey Guo
