Don't be Koi: New Izakaya Disappoints

With the exception of a few tea-based cocktails (RMB 35), the offerings here are pretty mediocre. The Western-influenced sushi rolls (RMB 48-68) with thick sauce and rich condiments could be considered tasty, though certainly not by traditional standards.

The sweet and spicy burdock (RMB 18), accented with soy sauce and white sesame, was a nice beginning. However, the grilled scallops and avocado with cheese (RMB 45) was terribly executed on my visit: withered, stale scallops, raw avocado, and grated cheese that was clumpy and underbaked. The okonomiyaki (RMB 35) was better, but slightly overdosed with cooking oil; the pancake was flavorful, but more pickled ginger was needed to balance out the grease. Similarly, the grilled cod with saikyo miso (RMB 68) would be good value – with less oil.

Standout dishes: Green tea liqueur milk
Also try: Tori Tei, Isshin

Izakaya Koi 鲤居酒屋
Daily 10am-2am. Rm 101, 1/F, Bldg 15, China Central Place, 89 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang District (157 1111 4810)
朝阳区建国路89号华贸中心15号楼101号

Photos: Emily Young