Bringing Global Fashion to Beijing: Mei Ping of NC.STYLE

Aussie Mei Ping works in Beijing as the International Business Development Manager at NC.STYLE, China’s first fashion consultancy to locally manage foreign luxury brands. We were staggered by how well-informed she is about Beijing’s fashion scene – but we’d expect nothing less from someone who has been actively involved in the retail and styling industry for the past six years. She also runs her own business providing image consulting and personal shopping services. We asked her to comment on shifting trends in the domestic market.

What drew you into the fashion industry? Why do you think fashion is important?
Up until a few years ago I viewed fashion as a hobby for myself. I held various part-time jobs at boutiques and designer stores while at university, but studied finance and always thought I would end up in investment banking. I was inspired after seeing how dynamic and rapidly developing the market was in China and decided to pursue my passion and take fashion seriously.

I'm not sure whether I would say fashion is particularly important in the context of life. I think people should not take fashion too seriously – have fun with it and use it as a creative channel to express themselves.

What is unique about Beijing's style scene? How does it succeed, and how must it improve?
Beijing is well known as the creative hub of China, and I think that is relevant to the fashion industry here and people's sense of style. The most unique thing about the Beijing style scene is the influence of the city's rich history and culture. Rather than purely copying international trends Beijingers are open to expressing themselves and interpreting fashion on their own terms.

I think it is particularly interesting how fashion has evolved in China with its unique history, especially considering only a few decades ago fashion and self-expression were virtually non-existent concepts. There is a strong focus on fast fashion in China. I would like to see consumers become more aware of quality and style rather than trends and fads.

How do international clothing tastes' in cities like the UK and Japan compare to Beijing's?
Many of the large UK fashion houses are steeped in history and have a much more classic approach to fashion, reinterpreting classic themes and designs. As Japanese designers don't have the same history to relate to there is more of a trend in recreating and drawing inspiration from modern culture – as well as traditional Japanese culture, of course.

People in China, and in particular Beijing, have in the past followed Japanese trends religiously, mainly due to the relatable aesthetic of the people and the perception that they were at the cutting edge of fashion. As China is opening up to a much broader range of fashion brands, from high to low end, huge fashion houses to small independent designers, they are also being much more exposed to European fashion. I think trends are moving from following specifically Japanese trends to a more international US/European influenced style.

How do you adapt your inventory to appeal to both local and international markets?
Part of NC.STYLE's success has been based on accurately gauging the market and being able to decide on the optimal timing for particular brands here. As Japanese trends were huge here several years ago NC.STYLE played a big role in introducing Japanese designers to China, including Onitsuka Tiger, Y-3, Santastic!wear, caqu and Satta.

As the market is growing, consumer's fashion sense is becoming more sophisticated, multi-brand boutiques are opening up, distribution channels are broadening, and consequently there is a larger demand for international brands in the market. In addition to this, the media are gradually becoming more international, educating Chinese consumers and influencing their purchasing decisions. It is very important to follow the media and in particular online media to see where Chinese trends are heading. Right now we are seeing a lot of opportunity for smaller designer brands from Europe and the USA and are developing our services to best assist these brands enter the market successfully.

What is your favorite fall trend and why?
Aviator – because I know if I invest in an aviator jacket this year I will still be able to use it in 10 years time.

Who are your favorite local and international designers?
Local - Vega Wang, Zhang Chi
International - Chloe, Marchesa, Alexander Wang, Alaia, Isabel Marant

Where's your favorite place to shop in Beijing?
I don't do a lot of shopping in Beijing. Lane Crawford definitely has the best range of brands in the city, but I find it overpriced in China. I love the luxury of having such accessible tailor made clothing here so I actually make frequent trips to the Muxiyuan fabric market to buy beautiful silks and cashmeres.

How would you describe your own sense of fashion?
I am quite a feminine dresser, but like to juxtapose different styles. I am also a strong believer in not getting too caught up with 'trends' and believe that we should all dress for our own aesthetic and lifestyle. I do find myself buying a lot of quality classic pieces and mixing them up with more contemporary statement pieces.

Where do you see China's industry in 20 years?
As a research exercise for my job I actually did a chart outlining the market trends of the fashion industry in chronological order for several major world fashion markets – Western Europe, the USA, Japan and China. Significant events included when the fashion industry began in respective local markets, when high street fashion stores started, when international fashion brands entered and finally when multi-brand boutiques began opening.

Considering that European fashion markets have evolved for more than 100 years, while with the Chinese fashion market was only really introduced 15 years ago, China has really moved ahead in leaps and bounds. I know it sounds pretty radical, but I believe in 20 years China will be one of the major fashion hubs of the world.

You can reach Mei Ping Doery for fashion consulting and inquiries at mei@ncstyle.com.cn.

NC.Style. Daily 10am-6.30pm. E109, Bldg 8, 46 Fangjia Hutong (just south of Guozijian Jie), Dongcheng District (8404 8268/6908) www.ncstyle.com.cn