Interview: New SALT chef Ana Esteves

Having just taken over the running of the kitchen at award-winning SALT – a position previously held by one of Beijing’s most respected chefs, Daniel Urdaneta (now at Mosto in Nali Patio), the pressure is on for young Venezuelan chef Ana Esteves. But with stints cooking in the US, France and Peru on her resume, Esteves is well prepared for the demands of cooking for SALT’s cosmopolitan clientele. agenda caught up with the chef earlier this month, asking her about how she is approaching the new job and about her own culinary explorations during her first two months in Beijing.

Look out for an edited version of this interview in the upcoming issue of agenda magazine.

agenda: Your predecessor, Daniel Urdaneta, has one of the strongest reputations of any chef in Beijing – were you nervous to be filling his shoes?

Ana Esteves: No, not at all. I was very aware of SALT’s high profile, and everyone in the kitchen, on the floor and behind the bar is part of that. I want to take SALT’s kitchen to the next level. I’m bringing new ideas which will improve the current situation in all aspects and I am really excited about taking on this new venture and challenge.

agenda: Have you shaken things up at all with any new innovations since arriving at SALT?

Ana Esteves: Changes and innovations have been very gradual and subtle at SALT’S kitchen. We have a concept that is working fantastically, and the last thing we want to do is become a different restaurant. There are more culinary innovations and techniques on the way, especially now that we will soon enter the cold season. These past two months have been a period of acclimatization, especially for my cooks, surviving the madness of the Olympics and getting familiar with the different ingredients in Beijing

agenda: You are one of the only few female head chefs in Beijing – is that something you pay much attention to?

Ana Esteves: I do not pay too much attention to it really! I think it’s great that women are taking leading roles in society and especially in the restaurant world, which has always been known as a male dominated industry. Sometimes I do think that we are taking over the world, ha ha! More than a gender related issue, to me it is all about potential and hard work. I of course love to prove myself amongst my male colleagues and show them what I am capable of doing. To have gained the respect of my cooks at SALT (who are all men) is something I am really proud of.

agenda: What are the essential ingredients or dishes in Venezuelan cooking, and how do these differ to other South American cooking styles?

Ana Esteves: Like in most of Latin America, Venezuelan food is mostly based on maize-based or corn-based flours, like the ones we use for our daily bread, arepas and cachapas. We use grains a lot, as well as very refreshing vegetables and herbs like tomato, avocado and cilantro. The most common dish is Pabellon Criollo, which is shredded beef, white rice, black beans and sweet plantain. South American cooking styles are very similar. In fact, every time I am amongst friends from different South American countries, there is always a dispute on which ingredients are from which country, or where it was found first! Having the chance to live in Peru also helped me understand their cooking style: A lot more seafood than Venezuela, ceviche and rice, and the influence of Japanese and Chinese cuisines instilled in [Peruvian] cuisine is fascinating!

agenda: So where can you find the closest tastes to Venezuelan home cooking in Beijing?

Ana Esteves: My place! Seriously, check out some of the new twists on SALT’s menu, I guarantee you’ll love them.

agenda: Where does a chef at one of Beijing’s top restaurants go for a meal that won’t disappoint?

Ana Esteves: Well, honestly I have not had a lot of time to go around! But I can tell you of a few places that I have been to and which I left completely happy. I am a Japanese food lover (intensely), so Hatsune was a very good experience! Their fresh sashimi and exotic roll combinations are excellent. Also Alla Osteria – very casual Italian cafe, and very good. I’ve [also] enjoyed pretty good Pad Thai at Purple Haze!

agenda: Finally, what is you all time favorite Beijing dish and where do you find it?

Ana Esteves: Peking duck at Da Dong! Wow! I am still very curious to try hot pot and other Chinese delicacies, but I will have plenty of time!

SALT
Tue-Sat noon-3pm, 6pm-10.30pm, Sun Brunch noon-4pm.
1/F, 9 Jiangtai Xilu (opposite the Japanese School, west of Rosedale Hotel), Chaoyang District. (6437 8457)
朝阳区将台西路珀丽酒店西边